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First leaked images of the new Samyang 135mm f/2.0 lens!

[shoplink 32428 ebay]$_574[/shoplink]

Our friend Vitaly from personal View found the images of the yet not announced Rokinon/Samyang 135mm f/2.0 lens on [shoplink 32428 ebay]eBay Hong Kong (Click here)[/shoplink]. The version you  see here is for Canon but as usual with Samyang expect version for all other mounts including Sony Alpha and Sony E-mount. The lens costs around $570 and will be announced before the CP+ show that starts on February 12.

$_576 $_575 $_574 $_573 $_572 $_57

Key Features:
– Extra low dispersion (ED)
– Glass aspherical lenses (AS)
– Ultra multi coating (UMC)
– Internal focusing (IF)

Uncomplete Specs:

Bildschirmfoto 2015-01-10 um 18.07.41

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          1. old lenses cant resolve the IQ of new sensors. And Samyang lenses perfom on par with Zeiss at 1/5th their price.

  1. Lovely price and it will produce stunning images for sure. But manual focus on that ridiculous tiny dof, my oh my…

    1. Manual focus on a modern optical viewfinder is an issue below f/2.8. But with an electronic viewfinder, it’s actually very accurate with focus magnification. It’s the opposite scenario to that of the Nikon OVF and an Otus MF lens. Only Canon offer a high acutance focusing screen for their 6D camera. And there’s only one Nikon, the Df, that offers a half decent focusing screen for these fast MF lenses.

      Your Sony’s EVF should work very well with this lens, especially so for closer portrait work!

      1. 85mm and up is easy to MF on a Nikon. 55 a little challenging. Wides are tough. The Nikon 70-200 2.8 is awesome with AF or with the 1.4 TC

        1. What do you shoot? I rarely see any work displayed on this board and it becomes tedious trying to correspond effectively.

    2. And this is why I crack-up at the Nikon/OTUS zealots. No way they’re shooting anything other than landscapes with that combo.

    3. I had a Sigma 85 1,4; it’s af was different when coming from mfd than from infinity, Further, how many 85 – 135mm feature really fast af? I mean for moving things af needs to be rather quick and for super narrow apertures it needs to be as accurate as phase detect can possibly be. If someone were to move rather slowly from side to side then yes, I can see phase AF at 135mm f/2 hitting an eyeball but are we talking some sort of rare snake woman here?

      My point is: narrow dof is hard with moving things, af or no af, but it is guaranteed accurate with mf and focus magnification.

  2. Not interested, since I have the 135/1.8 which is awesome (but more expensive). Manual focussing is additionally very cumbersome to get the primary eye sharp, if you shoot kids or clients constantly moving and not a trained model wide open. I practice that quite often, but focus peaking is useless in my opinion (just not accurate enough on A7ii or, depending on light condition you don’t see it at all), so that magnification is necessary. Setting the AEL button to magnification you can at the same time half press the shutter button and immediately fire off (IBIS is really helping here and stabilizes the image nicely). With f3-f4 it’s a lot easier, but then why not use the 70-200/4 directly? For trained models it’s however a viable option in my opinion.

    1. A photographer has to take on the role of a director. Are you saying that you have not a clue how to direct a model and therefore you are inept as a photographer without auto-focusing? So, by what you say, for an untrained photographer a manual focusing lens is not a viable option… and that you are an untrained and currently an inept photographer?

      1. Did you read what I wrote? It’s not about models, it’s easy with them, my wife does it all the time professionally, for example. Manual focus however has it’s caveats. Small kids, dogs, cats we have to photograph, are a totally different thing. And especially at 135/1.8. DOF is extremely shallow and the slightest movement makes you miss focus on the eye. With AF on my Nikons, no problem, with LA-EA4 possible but slow. But with the A7ii you just need to many iterations and loose time when doing it manually, as focus peaking is NOT accurate enough (press magnification button and half press shutter, zoom back and forth and the scene changed). Not all the kids do what their parents tell them, the same for dogs, many can’t sit still at all ( I wonder whether we have been the same when we were young). When at 135/1.8 a minimum change in focussing is enough to loose critical sharpness. With my wide angles it’s easy. But of course this makes us inept photographers, not able to see and use light. It must be because of manual focus.

        1. Total BS, the 135 mm can be manually focused on all the subjects you mentioned. And the LA-E4 focuses very quickly, everything you said is BS.

          1. Thanks for your insightful knowledge. Sounds very trollish, but I can’t rule out you really mean it. If you have enough contrast you can focus the 135/1.8 quickly (depends on how you define quickly, compared to thee D810 it’s no contest). Tracking? Not very useful. Of course you can focus manually (stationary subjects is no problem at all), but I would like to see you in action doing it repeatedly (to rule out random successful shots) on constantly moving targets, fully open and get the eyes critically sharp. Then I believe it. But, no, I believe you are just a troll, the chosen name indicates it.

      2. First line is the correct part, from there on it might as well be read as’stream of consciousness nonsense’ or tROLL food XD

        1. So, for indicating that you are unable to understand what was written you are admitting your stupidity on the subject matter? Just because you do not have the knowledge in photography to reply in a manner that is argumentative to the points brought up does not give you have the right to call another person a troll for your self-admitted shortcomings. My American English was spot on, so it is you alone that is failing to comprehend what is said, two-thirds of which are questions, questions usually made to beg responses and further discussion. Good to see that “HF” was able to read the comment and not wallow in your level of inarticulation and near-zero understanding.

  3. Why not just get a cheaper second hand 135mm? They were all great quality and they are MF like this Samyang.

      1. The 55 is very nice, but we don’t wont the same look on all our images, or do we? 55 is too short for me, unless you speak of APSC?

        1. That’s why you’re shooting looser, it’ll give you that “APSC 85mm look.” Just be sure to be wide-open, ping the closest eye with the small A/F sensor. Back button focus BTW. Try it!

          1. In perfect light cropping is easy, but not all the time it’s possible depends on your sensor, distance… Back button is s.th. I do all the time, used form my Nikons. We try to mix focal lengths a lot, the look from a 200mm on FF is difficult to be replicated with a 55mm. But thanks for the tips from a pro 😉

          2. If you are a professional portrait photographer, lens variety is your friend. Most on here though are beginners, for them NikonPro’s advice is splendid and cost-effect option.

          3. Now if it could only all be reduced to one simple bit of advice for those interested in photography and using a new Sony camera…oooOOO

      2. Need to step back from subjects when doing candid portraits. 55 is to up in the face. Funky distortion if your trying to get to close and fill the frame. 135 even stopped down can still give subject isolation quite easy well past 5.6.

  4. 135mm used to be one of the most popular focal lengths in days of 35mm film. Not sure why it is relatively neglected or specialised now. f2.8 legacy lenses at this length are pretty cheap, but f2 + not too expensive is a fairly attractive proposition

    1. It’s my favorite focal length because:

      1) Not to long as to make it worthless for street photography
      2) Subject isolation is easy even stopped down quite a bit
      3) Perfect range to be able to step back from your subjects and not invade their space.
      4) On a crop sensor you have about a 200mm perfect reach. One stop down and your at a 2.8. You give up some resolution of course, but most of the time on modern sensors it’s of no consequence. I see it as added versatility- although I’d like to own a 200mm 2.8 as well. However, not absolutely critical.
      5) Focal range is noted for it’s ease of providing a high level of optical performance at wide open. Even cheaper 135’s are quite good at 2.8 or above.
      6) It looks bad asss on my camera
      7) It really looks bad asss on my camera

      1. Anything here not better demonstrated with a single well chosen image?
        100mm is great too and 180mm etc, 200mm 2.8 is quite a special lens incidentally and more costly which you don’t even say. How is it shooting these teles on ‘high street’ or is it ‘fore street’?, you sound a bit like that NERDo now. If this keeps happening you will have to move as well XD
        better still, show an image before reading my posts regards perspective, and show one after. Show the best of each from images found on google. Show those crop versions verified also if you can for differentiation.
        REALISM not JUST PROFESSIONALISM
        Beat you to it:

        https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V10NTtuXeck

        1. I have no idea what you just said or what your point is other than I’m not into portraits of scantly dressed asian women who look like they are under 18. Just sayin.

          1. You got a recommended 135mm and supposedly use it on APSC for 200mm, do you have images of this? no..you aren’t real, but you did do that so you could say all that stuff like you meant it…but i guess you don’t mean it really as you now prove…don’t point it into light or get 35mm camera and better coated one…

          2. I showed three subject distances and suggested the ideal one…you showed nothing of your understanding or use of 135mm lens or of its use at the 135mm on 35mm camera..perhaps you do have an 85mm lens for an APSC camera which is both confusing and yet equivalent to 135mm on 35mm camera at same time.. Best get 35mm camera to simplify use of lenses. troll off and shoot people who will be jailed for shooting you back.

        1. Yes and no. Yes being that it is still a 135mm. No, being that on a crop sensor you are CROPPING into that 135mm…which gives you the 200mm.

          Yes, it would be better if lenses where simply known by their angle of view. That will never happen, so we’re stuck with the system as it is.

          1. 35mm camera meaning you don’t have to worry about that matter much unless helping out people who chose the confusing option for ‘simplicity’.
            Adding the crop factor to every focal length lens you use on APSC is no fun and working out the aspect ratio versions and depth of field between options and in relation to true 35mm camera shots that you might expect to get, is all JUST theoretical and pointless at that point. APSC also precludes affordable wide angle lenses with wide apertures and wastes a lot of the glass you are paying for >:( Modern ‘corrected’ lenses may be compact but they are slow in relation to 35mm camera options and cost a lot for that in both price and loss of image quality relative.
            The trolls are JUST playing whose the king of the ‘CASTLE’

          2. just say it right:
            135mm gives you the field of view of 202.5mm on 1.5 crop factor… cuz this “On a crop sensor you have about a 200mm perfect reach.” is just not true.
            on crop sensor with 135mm you have exactly 135mm 🙂

          3. For the millionth time – you get a crop FOV. Only pixel density changes reach. Stupid to repeat otherwise.

  5. Very very interesting lens . I am waiting for review .
    Samyang should do manual zoom , like 18-105, f2.8- f 3.5 or something similar . All video-maker is waiting for this .

  6. Awesome, I bet that lens will rock! Can’t wait to buy it! I love my other Samyang lens. I might even pick a Nikon version instead of an E-mount version, to be able to use it with a Speedbooster or a tilt-shit adapter! 🙂

    1. Lens is not compact thus Sony system isn’t compact, love to use that 135mm f/2 lens on speedbooster…sums up the trolling really…

    1. Yes, really shallow depth of field evocative ones but not anywhere near as good as other longer tele options for that. The f/2 is fast and if it is sharp wide open it is ideal for portrait type subject isolation, just used from a distance and not JUST to crop part of body with a vacuous background (pro) that might as well be cut out in photoshop (probably is also).

    2. Good for your inner landscape after other Sony fgts @ss repe you with it..but you like that as a Sony fgt, so HULK congratulate: win-win…for rest of photodom, too… you die of AIDS soon, dgsting fgt!

  7. I have a Leica Elmar 135 4 from the 60s. Do you really think this thing is even in the same class?

    It’s faster, but I live near f8, so I don’t care.

    1. I have a Hektor 135/4.5 from the 1930s (got it free). Comes with its own tripod foot. Your Elmar can’t hold a candle to it! 😉

          1. Umm there are things you can test. There are many things that are hard to quantify.

            Just an aside, Leica claimed that the Elmar 135 4 was the sharpest lens they had ever made when they released it.

          2. Sometimes vintage has smoother rendering, sometimes using modern glass with a faster aperture may be smoother anyway and less flare prone..i guess it all depends, and how inexpensive or cool the vintage lens is and what type of colour and handling it has
            Vintage leica is probably interesting as it is often slow and with well formed rendering, good glass will show true colours away from strong light. Ask the trolls, they will have continued my meager one lens research even if they havent tried them 🙂

          3. I wrote that JUST before sleeping and on an untested subject, but yeah lots of sense as i hope that Sony A7 cams are popular with vintage lens shooters (and not just as a subject for troll baiting) so that they have a ‘luminous’ future ahead of them along with my photography.

          4. Its ironic how my form itself anticipates you such that you show yourself up instead 🙂 Will you go on to be the new ‘masons’? but even more public? Start a political club opposite the conservatives one, for like minded trolls who prefer nihilism to free expression and to deny that fact perpetually?

    2. Almost all old lenses are crap. Lots of CA and low resolution. The best lenses in the world right now are the Otus 55, 85 and the Apo-Sonnar 135. All made within the last 3 years.

          1. A picture of some nice lenses but no pictures from the nice lenses. Even you should recognize a little problem here!

          2. Let me ask you this. Was it worth it? And out of that deadly trinity…which on is indispensable?

        1. Chris you have no idea. Old lenses can’t even touch what the best of today can do. Typical Leica from the 60s has 1/4 the resolution and lots of other issues – CA, flare, sagital coma, etc

          1. Sweetie I have been doing this since the 70s. I have had some sweet glass in my time. I loved my Nikon 135 2.8 I used on my FM2 and took a stack of photos with it. A very fine lens.

            Later after an hiatus I took up photography again, this time with a 4×5 and had Apo Symmar Schieders to play with.

            When I went digital with my Fuji X-E1 i had some of the finest APS-C lenses ever made to use. The XF 14mm is just stellar and the XF 60mm is a very sharp lens, that does macro on the side.

            I bought my Leica Elmar just to have a decent 135 for when I went FF and was just blown away by it. It is as sharp as any lens ever made. It’s colour rendition is delicious, it’s sense of space just breathtaking and it is my binkie.

          2. Sharpness, yes that’ll cut it with an aging client with a fat bank-roll. WTF are you actually shooting, my guess, nothing with a pulse, nothing but twigs & grass……

  8. There’s no chance it will be as sharp as the Otus 85mm or Apo-Sonnar
    135mm is on a D810. With Sony’s A7r shutter shock and lossy
    compression you’ll never come close to these kind of scores.

    1. All well & good Anton, but when the pixels hit the screen and ink hits the paper it all becomes somewhat academic, this is the downfall of all academic pursuits within art. I consult with many professional image-makers, not one of them has ever expressed these views, none are interested in charts and figures. However, there is a clique amongst nature photographers who do find this interesting, but most of whom are retired engineers and the sort.

      1. You’ve lost all respect from me. Using what I believe is a WWII picture as a joke is sick. You’ve reached a low that would make me question your very humanity. I hope you reconsider your humor- it’s incredibly disrespectful.

        1. Yes, is meant to be sisrespectful if you are Sony fgt.,so you are one, too! No more thumbs up from you, HULK sooo sad…

    1. Any time I see HULK in a thread I immediately close the entire comment window.

      If he seems to be appearing in the comments of most posts I will stop reading the comments altogether.

      This site will loose much of its value if it comes to that.

  9. And for the want of a $5 focus confirm chip on Canon EOS , Sony/Minolta A-Mount and E-Mount thousands of people who would otherwise purchase this lens will refuse to do so due to the inability to achieve accurate camera assisted focus confirmation wide open, the inability to use in body stabilization (A-Mount), the inability to use 5 axis IBIS (E-Mount) and for all mounts except for Nikon F-mount the inability to have any lens identification or focal length information in the EXIF section of captured images.

    Years ago, I purchased the Samyang 85mm f/1.4 lens of Sony/Minolta and while the image quality and sharpness was better than any other lens I’ve ever owned (including the Sigma EX 85mm f/1.4), I only managed to capture perhaps less than ten fully in-focus images with it due to the absence of a simple AF confirm chip that identifies the lens to the camera and allows the Sony DSLRs to engage image stabilization and focus confirmation assistance. The lens sits in my closet unused as it was almost impossible for me to shoot wide open f/1.4 at 85mm without focus assistance and still get my subjects in proper focus.

    Today, Yongnuo a much smaller Chinese company has managed to build reasonably high quality clones of Canon EOS 50mm f/1.8 and 35mm f/2.0 lenses complete with fast EOS compatible electronic focusing and aperture control. And of course anyone can buy a Chinese made focus confirmation chips for Sony/Minolta and Canon EOS systems on Ebay for under $10. Yet the large Samyang corporation that has been very successful designing, fabricating and selling modern high quality lenses for the last few years could not be bothered to spend under $5 (probably more like $1 for them in large quantities ) to attach a ROM chip on its lenses so that the camera will even know that a lens is even connected.

    We’re not even asking for auto focus lenses. We’re not even demanding basic support for aperture control to avoid having to resort to stop-down metering. No. Just a freaking little chip that identifies the lens to the camera and makes our lives so much easier. That little thing is something that Samyang still refuses to add to its lenses for reasons unknown to me and others.

    1. why would u need focus confirmation chip if focus peaking on sony cameras is superior and better than the beeping sound?

      sounds like you don’t even own a sony camera because no sony users ever complaint about manual focusing. Sony camera is the pinnacle and mecca of manual lenses. every legacy lens owners love their sony cameras!

      1. I own sony a7. And a bunch of legacy lenses, probably more lenses that you have years. Focus peaking is useless crap on that one, the only way to accurately focus with ultra fast lenses is by using selective area magnification.

        1. I only use manual focus lenses and i never use focus peaking as i find on the occasions i turned it on that it obliterates the view and the shot is not focused to my satisfaction anyway, perhaps if it developed into something both transparent and also indicative of the focus point i would use it as i like to place the focus point intuitively anyway 🙂 As of yet i have found no use for it whatsoever. I did use the over and under exposure markings on my K01 as makeshift contrast focus detectors though 🙂 and the onscreen aliasing of fine detail before going into zoom whereupon it was always fuzzy at focus point anyway so i had to judge from defocusing either side :I

          1. I guess: using focus peaking is useless without zoom into detail whereupon its moot, and as inaccurate as AF without zoom in XD

  10. Hulk is full of Sh*t
    After smashing everyone sh*t
    Hulk should wash her hands before eat unless she likes the taste
    Poor hulk brain is full of sh*t maybe thats the reason her mouth speak only sh*t
    Mommys hulk never teach her not to play with diapers contents
    Hulk smash it, hulk like it, hulk keep doing it, hulk loves everyones sh*t
    Everyone wish hulk leave us, go to play alone with her sh*t
    Hulk is alone, hulk is sad, hulk is full of sh*t and she does not understand why everyone runaway from her

  11. I have had the Sony Zeiss 135mm and, yes it was outstanding quality but it was also an awkward length for me. Too long for landscape or portraits but too short for wildlife. This was true whether I had it on my a700 (APSC) or A900 (full frame). Pity I ended up selling that lens. I still do not know what one would shoot at 135mm.

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