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Off-Camera Flash Part 2: Sony Alpha Tutorial
Head To Head – Fuji X-T1 And SONY A7 II (Soundimagesplus).
Is the A7 successor still the king of sub-$2000 full-frame cameras? (Imaging Resource).
A day with the Sony Zeiss 35mm f1.4 ZA (Jorge Torralba).
16-35mm Zeiss lens review at Boksis.
Loxia 35mm VS 16-35 at 35mm test (GetDpi).
Using the Metabones mk 4 EF>Emount smart adapter on the A7II, a user review (Tyson Robichaud).
Sony A7II + Minolta 55mm MC Macro Rokkor QF 3.5 (SonyAlphaForum).
Anonymous: “The Odin for Sony is currently not compatible with the Indra500. The new firmware to make it Sony-compatible is in the works, however no release date is known so far.”
Gary: “Hey guys I just finished a video showing a review for an older Teleconverter that I picked up to use with the CX900. Its an Olympus Tcon 14B 1.45 converter. 62mm. I could not find any video samples online showing teleconverters so I bought both the Tcon and an Olympus Wcon 8b to test. You can check out the Tcon Video here https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OY0rbfVqpxQ“
13 Responses
How is it off-camera flash if you have the controller flash mounted on the camera. Granted the FV20 is weak, but true off camera would ne something like the Phottix Odin controller mounted on the camera, and all flashes off camera.
Doesn’t matter that the controller unit is mounted on the camera . The flash doing the actual lighting if off the camera . Do yourself a favor and check out the strobist blog and get informed. http://strobist.blogspot.com/2006/03/lighting-101.html
Using a flash as a trigger does result in this flash contributing to the image. You might not see it in daytime and when the two flash powers are very different but run short flash duration and it becomes a factor, certainly on Nikon.
In Sony system it works via a separate preflash
It’s still off-camera flash. The 20 is only acting as a controller; it isn’t lighting the subject. The flash lighting the subject, the 60, is off-camera.
ISO 1600 Fuji =/= ISO 1600 Sony.
Yeah, I’m really not convinced that guy knew what he was talking about. Pretty poor review overall imo – it seemed like he didn’t know what to critically look for in a camera.
Jorge’s short test makes me really think about the Distagon. 🙂
35mm is my favorite fl. I own the FE35/2.8, and I am really happy with it, but sometimes I miss some more punch, and 2 additional stops will of course give you more control over bokeh.
The Metabones MK4 is a highly recommendable adapter for the A7II. Maybe there are cheaper adapters available, but I have a good feeling with the Metabones. It fits tight, and built quality is very good. AF operation was of no importance to me.
I needed it because I wanted to go for a TS lens. Unfortunately the Samyang/Walimex has too many drawbacks, and the Super-Angulon (via LA-EA adapter) is too expensive…
So I went for the Canon TS-E24via Metabones MK4. I am still training on TS, but for standard wide angle 24mm photography I can say, the TSE is a fantastic IQ delivering lens.
The exif are showing proper setting information – in LR as well as in DxO10.
Need more samples to get convinced for the Distagon?
Check out my Flickr: https://m.flickr.com/photos/mathias84/
This lens is easily the best so far. Such a cinematic character with strong colors and contrast.
Also crazy sharp and that aperture ring is just amazing.
Please join my FE Distagon 35 1.4 group on Flickr: https://flic.kr/g/rh8Ab
First, kudos to Sony for including wireless controller capability in their least expensive flash.
I have been a advocate of Strobist.com for many years, and bordering on Cardinal Rule #1 is “No on-camera flash.” The two photos on the link you provided would have wiped out shadow detail with on-camera flash and could not be re-created. I know this from experience as I first started with Nikon CLS system, using in-camera controller and pop-up flash set to -3EV to trigger SB900 slaves. Let’s advance from Strobist 101 to 102. Specifically, overview of light controls. http://strobist.blogspot.com/2007/06/l102-light-controls-overview.html
Low and behold, #1 Varying The Position “Changing the angle of your light position is what will allow your flash to define the three-dimensional shape of your subject. This is where on-camera flash fails us. It illuminates, but does not reveal shape. Getting your light off of the camera is the most basic control, so it is our first of the seven.”
The experience is why I progressed (or use as backup) Nikons CLS to Pocket (Poverty) Wizards with the AC3 controller to adjust all lights from the camera position rather than running around and adjusting like I did with the more basic Cactus triggers. Lighting is a major concern as I transition to the Sony world, with Phottix Odin the apparent leader with radio based at camera control. Unfortunately, it is only available for Minolta mount which requires the adapter that raises the flash position behind umbrellas, and higher bulk on the camera. Their Mitros+ flash does come with the ISO mount and internally includes trigger/controller but to be true off camera, need the Odin.
I think you’re confusing the Phottix devices.
The Odin TCU (trigger unit) has the minolta mount and requires an adapter in order to mount on the camera. The adapter only raises the profile by about 1/2″ and is very secure on the camera.
The Mitros flash has the ISO mount but requires an Odin receiver to respond to the TCU. The receiver has a Minolta mount, therefore you need an adapter to mount the flash. This is the combo that will add bulk and raise the flash position behind the umbrella.
The Mitros+ that you referenced actually has the ISO mount AND has the transceiver built-in. Therefore no need for a separate Odin receiver which in turn means no bulk and no raised position behind the umbrella and it responds to the TCU out of the box.
So, you’re insisting that anyone who uses a flash as a commander for off-camera flash is actually using on-camera flash??????? Ever heard of Joe McNally? SMH