It doesn’t work, no AF-improvement, it doesn’t focus between each shot in CL or CH, no faster AF in low light! This is some of the negative feedback we could read in the comments on FR and at the Fuji-X-Forum here.
So what… is Firmware 4 just crap? Well, sometimes (often?) it’s just a matter to find the right settings. Here is an extended list tips:
1) Enable Mechanical Shutter (MS) only. The camera won’t focus between each shot in CL or CH tracking, if ES only (electronic shutter) or MS+ES is enabled. Shooting fast-moving subjects with the ES doesn’t really make sense (rolling shutter effect).
2) Turn Off Face Detection! If you have Face Detection put to ON, the camera will focus only with CDAF. The faster Phase Detection AF (PDAF) works only if Face Detection is disabled. [UPDATE: years after this article was written, a firmware update for certain Fujifilm cameras enabled phase detection also when using face detecion. New Fujifilm cameras have this already integrated at launch.]
3) High Performance Mode ON: many don’t even know that this features exists, like Calipedro here. It’s definitely worth to sacrifice a bit of battery life. Fuji should put this feature ON as standard.
4) Keep you subject in the center: Phase detection pixels are located in the center of the sensor. Keep your subject in the center and PDAF will give you a faster AF.
5) Use all Phase Detection Pixels with Zone AF 5×3: To take advantage of all the phase detection pixels, set you Zone AF box to 5×3 and place it in the center of the frame. Within this 5×3 box tracking will be very smooth… at least that’s my experience with my crazy dog.
6) Increase the size of the AF-box: If you use Single Point AF, increase the size of the AF-box as much as possible.
7) PRE-AF: The camera will continuously adjust focus, even if the shutter is not pressed (of half pressed). This can help to get the first shot in focus quicker. Downside: more battery drain.
8) LENS FIRMWARE: make absolutely sure that the lens is updated to the latest firmware version.
9) Different Lens, Different results: According to the lens you use, the AF-improvement will be more or less (or not) visible. For example, I was very happy with the improvement of my 55-200, but I can’t really say if the 18-55 or 14 has become faster.
10) The learning curve: Practice and get used to the new features. See what works best in which situation
11) Let Rico study for you. Rumors has it, that Rico will update his X-T1 book and tell us how to make the best out of our new Fuji X-T1 FW 4. Once it’s out, all we have to do is to read his updated book.
So, do you have more tips? Then share them in the comments.
And don’t stop to share your findings on Fujirumors and at the Hot Firmware threads of the Fuji-X-Forum.
enjoy your day… and FW 4.0 🙂 ,
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54 Responses
All of the suggested stuff I had activated already in FW 3.0 and I did not see any improvement for single point AF in average conditions, same location, same subject. Tested before upgrade, after upgrade. Refocus to close subject, refocuse to far subject, identical hunting for 1s.
However, I found that the Zone focus feature is quite nice, I activated the one wich 9 points in the center, focuses faster than single point, and more accurate than large single point.
I have very different results, according to the lenses. I have the impression that some don’t really focus faster (or just slightly), like the 14 or 18-55, while others have been improved a lot (like the 55-200. So I think that, depending on the lens, the improvement is more or less (or not) visible.
And I agree… Zone AF is really a great feature to have, and works so smoothly with any lens… I even get some good results tracking bikers with the 35mm… who would have thought my old 35 would be able to do that one day 😉
btw, I tested with the 35mm only. Maybe some T-X1s are different than others?
about the biker tracking: to be clear, i didn’t get 100% of the shots sharp. The 35mm will never be a speed demon. But more or less 75% of the shots where sharp. We are not talking of mountain bikers running downhill… just ordinary bikers on a cycle path. In that situation it performed well.
Sure, but I was comparing only refocusing with single point AF. Near-Far refocusing seemed to be the same within a not so good lit room. Hunting still happened as before.
Hi all,
I don’t think this firmware was meant to improve focus speed.
Nowhere in the release notes they say speed is improved.
They only say that the new AF System “complements” the [already] fast and accurate autofocus.
The only thing they say they improved was focus “accuracy”. Not speed.
From what I read from Fuji and based on my own humble testings, this firmware was meant to make it “easier” to track moving subjects.
The new AF system simply tracks subjects better at the same autofocus speed it used to. Also, by adding the Single-Point, Zone, and Wide Tracking modes, it’s easier for us to know how the system behaves.
With previous firmwares, we only suspected that tracking was made within the 9 central points. Now it is clearer.
I’m not sure where all that “faster autofocus” buzz came from but it’s not what Fuji said they’d deliver. And it’s not what they delivered either.
Now what I’d really like to read about is how more accurate is the new AF system. Not how faster it is because it’s not.
How much easier is it to track subjects? From my experience, the zone mode still misses more than I’d like. I’m still getting shots where one shot is focused on the subject but the next shot is focused on the background/foreground. So based on my experience, I’m not seeing much of a difference in that area.
Excellent post, exactly what I observed. Speed is same, but new and nice features added.
Fuji promised faster AF for all lenses, thanks to PDAF even in lower light (previously PDAF was working just in good light). So, if you disable face detection and use the center part of the sensor, you should notice a faster AF with all lenses in lower light.
I noticed the 23mm 1.4 making a bit more noise during focusing after the update. Did you hear anything about this, Patrick?
No, haven’t noticed nor heard anything about. Will do some testing and keep my radar tuned on it
Take a look at the list and you’ll know where the faster autofocus buzz comes from: people are enabling high-performance mode and pre-AF. These alone help a bit with speed without the FW update.
And of course as you pointed out, it’s very easy to mistake accuracy for speed. It’s just how our perception works. Takes longer to get in-focus shots on a less accurate AF system.
So there’s improvement because 1) people are enabling features to see the improvement of the new FW – quite amusing. 2) You get accurate shots faster (perception) 3) You get accurate shots faster (some improvements due to FW). Put all these together, add the usual hype you see here about everything, and you get the Big Buzz you see 😀
It’s a pity really that the PDAF points are not spread out a bit more because in many cases (especially with people) you don’t want your subject to be right in the middle. Other than that, these tips sound great. I am more and more inclined to expand my Fuji kit (which is currently confined to an X100S… 🙂
The phase detect points are on the sensor so there’s not much they can do about it.
My guess (hope) is that the new sensor will have PDAF points all across the sensor.
On IISW 2015 both Sony and Canon presented sensors that had PDAF in all pixels.
Yeah, impressive: That’s one of the reasons why a lot of people are waiting for Fuji to use a Sony sensory I guess.
That’s gonna be a long wait. Usually it takes the sensors that were presented at IISW 3-5 years to make it into production cameras.
Oh well… I guess the current 9 PDAF points will do for the time being. 🙂
Just focus and recompose. The main time that won’t work is when taking a close portrait, then you have the time to use the other focus points anyway so no problem.
Sure, you can do that if the subject sits still, but with kids it’s a different story. Anyway, you can’t have it all… 😉
No focuse and recompose is not an option when using a bright lens wide-open such as f/1.4. Why? Because of field curvature. The net result is a sub-optimal, slightly blurry subject. This is why moving the AF point is much much better.
Regarding the second point – face detection obviously uses slower CDAF but when it doesn’t find the subject it can happen that the camera will use PDAF anyway after “an indecisive moment”.
I took a slew of pictures of my dog running and jumping last night with the 55-200 and had an absolutely abysmal hit rate. I am way to early on the learning curve to draw any real conclusions from this other than to say that some of the hype may be a bit inflated. As with any new software it usually takes some play and experimentation to get the hang of it. As for the super improvement others have seen on the 35mm, here too I was disappointed. It seemed the same to me. My use was only inside with bad light though. Disappointed is probably the wrong word though, as for me the 35 is the magic lens – I loved it before the update and still love it – fast aperture, sharp, small and light. It seemed quick enough before. Still open to seeing improvement though as I use it in a variety of circumstances over the coming weeks. The one lens that did seem snappier is one others didn’t find so improved, the 56mm f1.2. It locked on nicely and quickly in some tough situations and the face detection and eye detection are great. I am happy with the upgrade and looking forward to some play and experimentation to learn how to get the most out of these new features. Thanks so much Fuji!
I like and use facial autofocus and plan on keeping it enabled. Want better composition in your photos? Get your subject out of the center of the frame. Net results – no difference. I still have the same criticism of the x-t1. Great camera, slow autofocus. Keep your DSLR for important work. That’s why I have two systems.
There are ways around this issue such as cropping a bit in post.
Don’t forget that phase detection isn’t just the center point but also the surrounding points 1 point in all directions. Not a huge difference but it’s something. Also, keep in mind that most DSLRs don’t have phase detection cross-points spread over the frame. The D750 for example, which uses Nikon’s flagship AF system, has it’s cross-points clustered in the center of the frame. If anything only slightly improved over the Fuji implementation.
I use a combination of the Fuji X-T1, X-T10, Nikon D750 and D610 for my wedding and portrait work. I find that with practice and skilled usage the Fuji system not only keeps pace for my work but in some cases is preferred.
Just my two cents. Hopefully this is helpful.
When people come from a DSLR, they expect to be able to use it the same way but that’s not always the case. You need to spend time with each piece of new kit to learn it’s Pros and Cons. Not just cameras but lenses as well. Knowing the lenses sweet spot will help maximise IQ and performance. Knowing the strengths of each lens you have makes it easy to choose the right tool for the job.
Often, people put too much pressure on themselves to be able to do something that ultimately, requires new skills and abilities. They see people in reviews doing it but at times, forget these people are professionals who’ve done it many times. Camera’s can’t and won’t do everything on their own, it’s up to the photographer to get the most out of the camera.
I’m yet to find a situation that I couldn’t capture an image for a client because of the camera. I’ve always been able to either change settings or build rigs to get the camera in the place I want and capture the effect I’m looking for. The best function all photographers have is the one between their ears…. and, not to beat themselves up if they don’t succeed straightaway!! Patience and practice!
A few years back, I was reading an article made by a “Canon Ambassador of Light”, basically a Canon sponsored pro photographer, this “PRO” said he only used the center AF Point. After reading the article, I realized the “PRO” did not know how to compose a shot in camera using the other AF points and he just cropped in post. I felt sorry for Canon, all that work putting more AF points into the camera, and the guy hadn’t even taken the time to learn how to use all the AF points.
So Noah, you are critical of the camera because your not willing to use all the different AF modes, depending on the situation, really?
Ever heard of “focus-recompose”? Lots of pro’s and non-pro’s use center point only and focus/recompose. Especially older Canon camera’s were notoriously inaccurate hitting critical focus using the outer (non cross type) points, not to mention that the focus point spread on FF leaves a lot to be desired. Besides that, it is a LOT quicker to focus/recompose than to set AF point after composing.
I agree about the speed. I never quite mastered the art of juggling the AF point (ie I have never been able to be as fast as focus/recompose)
Now with a 1.2 lens … you run the risk of not so sharp focus. But to be fair as this is most often for portrait (in my case) I’ll be using the facfe/eye detect feature. Or the new zone focus. So plenty of choice here with v4
As a manual only shooter all this focus on autofocus is of less interest. One point I have been asking for is to get rid of the white square on the screen when shooting in mf mode. it is cluttering my view. I don’t need a constant reminder where I have my magnification center. And when I change it’s as obvious as when you change af-area.
if you know how to use your fuji camera, no problems taken, my only issue was af sound and that was fixed. shooting skaters at venice was a breeze. check it out on my ig @scoobysnapstories
A few interface suggestions for Fuji:
1. If some toggle (such as face detect) can be assigned to Fn, make it into an on/off instead of a pop-up menu. Right now I have to press 3 separate buttons, when it really should be just one keystroke.
2. How many keystrokes does it take to format a memory card?… Hire an interface designer, dammit.
3. Lock all the features that could potentially screw up a user experience under the “Expert” menu. Or add an “Expert options” menu item that displays/unlocks such features. If you thought that you can handle advanced stuff but failed, all you have to do to start shooting again is disable the “Expert” mode. Suck it up, you’re not an expert.
12 keystrokes to format the card which takes 6 seconds (faster for those with nimble fingers)
Now imagine a pro that has to format a dozen cards at once. Flamenco style! ))
I hear what you say and agree completely with you.
On the other hand that’s a whopping 48 seconds + say 15 second to change cards 15*12 = 180 seconds : in under 4 minutes that’s done. If you make it any easier people will start complaining that they erased their card by accident.
On the toggle instead of menu I could not agree more though.
UI design is a b$$ch
Nikon have a nice shortcut for formatting memory cards, just 2 keystrokes (although each keystroke are more of a chord). Never saw a Nikon user complaining about formatting by accident.
You’re right.
On the same note last I remember on my D2Hs the shortcut was refusing to work and I had to go through the menu, otherwise the formatting was defective. Don’t ask – Nikon support could not discover the fault, so I was glad to have the menu option still 😉
Yeah, miss that.
I’d surely love to have on/off toggles.
Like the direct access to changing the focus point … it makes a photographers life so much easier! Huge difference.
I’ve been on the X-T1 fence since it came out. This FW update adds the zone focusing which was one of the things that tipped the scales to the Sony side for me. The one thing that Sony still has going for it is the zebra stripes for still photography. If Fuji added this via a FW update it’d be hard for me to stay on the fence since I do notice that the size and weight of FE lenses makes me think twice about taking my Sony somewhere. I think it’s just a matter of time before this comes, but it may end up in an X-T2 instead of the X-T1. I’m an X100s owner so I know firsthand that not all improvement trickle down ;^)
As a huge fan of uncluttered viewfinders, I hate zebras. However, having blinking highlights as a chimping option without compulsory histogram would’ve been great.
I don’t consider the zebras to be clutter since it’s an overlay that modifies the image itself as opposed to being a widget sitting on top of an image (like the histogram). Also, the zebras only show up when there’s something to show, which does a great job of calling your attention to a potential exposure issue – unlike persistent widgets.
A lot of photographers are still practicing ETTR, which means that they gonna see a lot of zebras all over the scene. I’d rather have a color histogram option in play mode.
I gave my reflection yesterday. After 3 years trial and error in all kinds of firmware updates to get a decent AF & the right control features in place, Fujifilm finally adopted about the same control set as what most expert and pro DSLRs have on board since the last 10 years. Even with those particular settings, I gave the X-T1 a decent try today and I’m really not blown away by the increase in speed either – even in the mirrorless world we still don’t have the same top notch AF-performance as f.i. Olympus has and some lenses are really showing only a very small or even no difference at all. So we still don’t have the same kind of performance what the speed monsters in the DSLR-landscape can do. It’s just ‘advanced expert’. Is that a problem? I don’t think so -Fuji isn’t playing in the same league either. A sports photographer won’t buy this type of gear. Most event shooters will still hesitate. But for many, many users, the X-T1 will be sufficient as a workhorse. Nevertheless the firmware 4 hype as such left me with a lot of mixed feelings. It’s like a kid that was promised a big ice-cream and finally got one or two marshmallows. Yes it’s an improvement but I don’t own a different camera now and even the fabulous Rico won’t change that 😉 .
The issue of eternal hunting on the AF-C is still there with all this points taken into account. Issue already mentioned and described in: http://www.fujirumors.com/kaizen-rocks-yet-again-fujifilm-x-t1-fw-4-0-tests-special-fuji-site-about-the-new-af-system-3-important-tips/#comment-2107779575
And the feature/bug on not being able to use AF-L (so not possible to use back button focus here) when face detection focus mode is selected.
Wow, that’s a long list… Not happy about 3) – who would be? To have both high performance mode and PRE-AF (extremely annoying, and even more of a battery hog than hpm) really sucks. Still, gift horse, mouth. Also, understandable, probably slow processor, sensor read-out, slow everything, I guess this is the best Fuji can do. They have been reusing old components in every launch in the last 2 years. Smart move to keep costs down.
Improved enough for me to drop the Nikon gear and take only the XT-1 for a month long trip. Had the 18-55 and bought the 10-24 and 55-200. Don’t have any primes but I’ll keep a Ricoh GR in my pocket. Looking at photozone I’m not blown away by the corners on any of the 1.4 primes. The 23 has too much coma for astro and the 35 just isn’t there in the corners, at least for me. If I wanted crazy razor sharp I’d haul the Nikon and 1.8 primes around. The 16mm looks promising but not at that price. BTW, B&H Photo has a few of the 16mm in the used dept at 16% off. Overall, I found the firmware update worth it even though I’m still running the beta version.
If Rico updates his XT-1 book and we have the first edition on kindle will the update be free?
If you are talking about the 1.8G primes, I never found them “crazy razor sharp”, good, very good, yes; lightweight but not crazy razor sharp, I was never upset by them being G lenses . I had the 35, 50 and 85mm the later being the best of the lot.
Although the 1.8g primes are sharper than the 1.4g when stopped down just a bit vs the 1.4 being wide open, the 1.8 primes seem about as good as you can get before looking at the zeiss planar lenses. Those are out of reach and manual focus on Nikon is too challenging for enthusiast work IMO.
Not really disappointed. The AF does feel snappier, but that’s about it.
My big problem with the Fuji system since day one has been the crap manual focus by wire. If your manual focus is lacking then AF needs to be more reliable and pick up the slack. The crap AF wouldn’t even be an issue for me if there was proper mechanical manual focus.
I think I’ve just come to the realization that currently the Fuji system isn’t capable of doing what I need it to do.
I love the Fuji Lenses, the small form factor and IQ but a D750 w/ a 50mm f/1.4G is looking really good right now.
the 50mm f/1.4G is really good … once stopped down a little. At least this was my experience
On the D8X0, the AF-S 50mm F1.4G is an extremely weak performer. Wide open, it has a kind of Chromatic Aberation that is even worse than some 30 years old lenses. It’s also not in the list of preferred lenses for the D8x0-range and I assume it won’t be much better on the D750. It compares in really nothing to the excellent XF 35mm, not only regarding CA, but distortion an corner to corner sharpness is quite disappointing too. If someone claims this particular lens is better than f.i. the XF I’m pretty sure he really didn’t try or compare it. And yes, I’m a dedicated Nikon F user since about 30 years now. Precisely that is where Nikon disappoints me more and more – that small companies like f.i. Sigma are capable to develop better glass than quite a few standard Nikkors – all suffering a bit from the same problems.
gotta learn to stop down and figure out what depth of field is. Blind lenses can only shoot sharp wide open 😉
Just a thought but you might want to try the AF+MF option. Manual focus is a pain as you have to wrack through it so far. I tend to AF with half shutter press to get close, then use MF ring to fine tune, this way you only have to move the MF ring a very small amount, its very intuitive and I find a really good compromize as you get speed from AF and accuracy from MF
Couple of people contacted me that the new Face Recog in FW4 is not accurate in that when you pick ‘auto’ eye, while it supposed to focus on a closest eye, it picks the other eye. I have not noticed it so I had to check myself. When the face is not parallel to the plane…. I tested it (not extensively though) and I think these people found a possible issue with the firmware. Here is a photo I took at night time the other time. http://brodsky.smugmug.com/Night-Life-and-Going-Out/Santa-Monica-with-Paris-June-201/i-hVv8PjX/0/X3/DSCF5720-X3.jpg Anyone else noticed the issue, or most of you don’t use Face Recognition feature of the new firmware?