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DC.watch (translation here) posted that cool image of the [shoplink 24632 ebay]Horseman[/shoplink] “Axella” and “VCC PRO“. You can shoot in a real “large format” style with your Sony A7-A7r! If you shoot large format you can use this to compose your images. Pretty handy!
The “Axella” costs 600,000 Yen (around $5,900) and is fully equipped for tilting, swivel, rise/fall and swing. The “VVC PRO” can tilt only but costs much less, around 150,000 Yen (around $1,400).
P.S.: It may come to a surprise for you but I am still a large format shooter. I hope I can try this one day 🙂
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Where have our comments gone? I was hoping for a reply to a question that I had.
We will reinstall them soon. We had to install a 2 days old backup to clean our system. COmments will be back within 24hours.
Dear Admin,
I posed a question to “Caleb” concerning adaption of the Mirex-Tilt-Shift to A7R. That whole section was erased. Could you please help me contact “Caleb” or act as mediator, please. Perhaps you still can reconstruct our intrees to the forum?
I was wondering whether Caleb had problems with reflections inside the Mirex-adapter or whether he was referring to the EF to E-mount Adapter that he had to modify.
To answer what I think your question was, this is basically just a jig which allows the camera to be moved up and down, left and right within the LF lens’s image circle. You take multiple images in a grid pattern and use “stitching” software to join them together. For example, take a 102×127 mm large format size and you can cover this with a 4×4 grid of 16 slightly overlapping images (FF being 24 x 36). In practice, you’d probably have to take more as stitching software will work better with a larger overlap. Of course, it only works for static subjects in constant lighting conditions as it takes some time to take 16 photos and slide the camera in the jig.
Somebody competent in a workshop should be able to make something like this by adapting an old LF camera chassis and using a simple M42 to A-mount adapter. The biggest challenge will be to make it sufficiently rigid.
If you only care about stitching, something like the Rhinocam is going to be more your thing.
The real advantage of a bellows is that you get full and independent control over tilt, swing, shift and rise/fall movements on the lens (possibly on the camera as well, not sure if this bellows allows that or not).
Shift and rise/fall is used for correcting perspective distortion, which tilt and swing are used for adjusting the plane of focus.
e.g. if you are taking a picture of a tall building and don’t want the perspective distortion created by tilting the camera upwards to fit the building in frame, you can use rise/fall movements to bring the building into view while still maintaining straight vertical lines.
e.g. if you are taking a landscape shot where you have details at your feet in front of you all the way up a hillside and distant mountains, you can use tilt movements to adjust the plane of focus so that everything is in critical focus without having to stop down the lens all the way.
This has been around for ages. It’s kinda ridiculous, you can do essentially the same thing with a used 4×5 and some duct tape if you are in hurry.
This is a joke, right? Right??!
I just did some tests with my Rhinocam, which can be mounted as a back for 4×5 cameras.
I used the NEX-6 on the Rhinocam and the Schneider APO-SYMMAR MC 5.6/210 on the Gandolfi Variant 4×5.
The lens tilted for more DOF, I did the 2×4 images with shifting the NEX-6 in the Rhinocam
PLUS
extra images left and right by shifting the back of the Gandolfi
That gave me 28 images and about 200 MPixel resolution.
here is my album at flickr:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/dierktopp/sets/72157641081324295/
1:1 crops included.
who needs so many pixels?
nobody or almost nobody, but it is fun, when you can do it 🙂
And it is really an option to use the Rhinocam for tilted focal plane
I made prints of about 2m² from stitched images with the Rhinocam with fascinating details!
Yeah I have used my nex 7 on my CAmbo with Rhino cam just for single exposure. Its nice for testing to not have to convert LEAF RAW. I also use my Rhinocam for make wall murals that don’t have the curvature problems that a Gigapan head has. 30mm mamiya fisheye and 8 exposures and I can make a land scape the size of a large wall no problem.
I wouldn’t do this camera either I would look into a cambo x2 for this type of work with these camera if didn’t already have all my studio gear. My next plan is to figure out how to mount a bunch of nex 3’s into my winsner 8×10. (not really)