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New Firmware Features (1): Using AF+MF
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This Thursday (18 DEC 2014), Fuji is releasing new firmware for the X-Pro1, X-E1, X-E2 and X-T1. This is the first of three articles explaining the changes and enhancements brought to you by these updates. Let’s begin with the single new feature that affects all four X camera models: AF+MF.
What is AF+MF?
AF+MF allows you to autofocus in AF mode, then adjust the focus manually by turning the focus ring while holding the shutter button half-depressed.
In order to access this feature, the camera needs to be updated with the latest firmware (at least version 3.40 for the X-Pro1, 2.40 for the X-E1, 3.00 for the X-E2 and 3.00 for the X-T1). Then select SHOOTING MENU > AF+MF > ON to enable the new feature.
How to apply AF+MF
In order to use AF+MF, your X-T1 or X-E2 have to be in AF-S autofocus mode. Users of X-E1 and X-Pro1 cameras may also select AF-C using the focus mode selector switch that is located at the front of the camera.
Here’s how AF+MF works, step by step:
- Autofocus on your subject as usual (using either AF Area or Multi mode) by half-pressing the shutter button.
- Once autofocus has been confirmed (green rectangle) or not confirmed (red rectangle), keep the shutter button half-depressed and rotate the focus ring of your lens to manually adjust the focus distance until you are satisfied.
- When you are happy with your manual focus adjustment, fully depress the half-pressed shutter button to take the shot.
What’s AF+MF good for?
I have identified three main applications for AF+MF:
- Manual focus in situations when autofocus fails
Instead of losing time by changing the focus mode from AF to MF, you can now immediately focus manually when the camera’s AF fails to acquire the subject. Simply adjust the focus manually using the focus ring. If Focus Peaking is enabled, it will automatically engage as soon as the focus ring is rotated and manual focus (MF) kicks in. Users of the X-E2 and X-T1 can also make use the Focus Check function (MAIN MENU > SCREEN SETUP > FOCUS CHECK > ON). In this case, the camera will automatically magnify the focus area as soon as AF+MF is engaged by turning the focus ring. To make it work, please make sure that AF-S is set to AREA (not to MULTI). For maximum manual focus control, you can combine Focus Check magnification with Focus Peaking edge enhancing. - Correcting the camera’s autofocus
There are cases when you might want to fine-tune the autofocus of your camera by adjusting it manually. Again, Focus Peaking is available to make things easier, and you can enable Focus Check on your X-E2 or X-T1 to automatically see a magnified view of the focus area when you turn the focus ring. - Shifting the depth-of-field (DOF) zone or setting the hyperfocal distance
AF+MF let’s you quickly shift the DOF zone towards or away from the camera by turning the focus ring after half-pressing the shutter button. The digital distance scale in the viewfinder (or on the LCD) can be quite helpful here. Initially, DOF partly extends to the front and to the back of the autofocus plane, but you can manually shift the DOF zone. For example, you can move the left tip of the DOF indicator bar to the originally displayed autofocus distance, thus setting a DOF zone that begins at the distance to your subject and extends all the way to the back from there. You can also move the right tip of the DOF bar to barely touch the infinity mark of the camera’s digital distance scale to set the hyperfocal distance. In order to use the digital distance scale, make sure that MF DISTANCE INDICATOR is checked in your DISPLAY CUSTOM SETTINGs and that you are in Custom display mode (press the DISP/BACK button to cycle through the various display modes provided by your camera model).
In the above example, I autofocused on the fountain by placing the AF frame right over it, using a small aperture of f/16. Since the part of the DOF zone that extends in front of the fountain towards the camera is useless in this case, I manually shifted the DOF zone away from the camera using AF+MF. The resulting DOF zone now begins at the fountain and extends all the way to the back.
What’s different?
At first glance, the MF component of AF+MF may look like your usual manual focus, but it’s not. While “genuine” MF is always performed at maximum (wide-open) aperture, the MF part of AF+MF is performed at the selected working aperture. That’s because the shutter button is half-pressed, so the camera is already primed to take the shot with minimal shutter lag.
This means that when you are manually focusing in AF+MF mode, the EVF/LCD will display a live view that shows the actual depth-of-field of the resulting image. It also means that Focus Peaking will show an increasingly large zone as “being in focus” when you stop down the lens. Obviously, this can make it more difficult to “nail” your manual focus adjustment.
If you shoot wide-open, there’s no difference between the MF component of AF+MF and normal MF.
AF+MF and “clutch lenses”
AF+MF even works with “clutch type” lenses like the XF 14mm or XF 23mm. These lenses feature a clutch mechanism to mechanically switch between manual focus (MF) and autofocus (AF) mode. Since the focus ring of these lenses can only be turned when the clutch is in the MF position, you need the following configuration to get AF+MF to work:
- Enable AF+MF in the Shooting Menu of your camera.
- Select AF-S on your camera (using the focus mode switch) and MF on the lens (by pulling the clutch mechanism towards the camera).
- Use AF+MF as described above under How to apply AF+MF.
Here are a few tips regarding AF+MF and clutch lenses:
- Make sure that the manual focus ring of the lens has sufficient play to the left and right so you can make the necessary MF adjustments.
- The distance and DOF markings on your clutch lens have no meaning in AF+MF configuration. Instead, use the digital distance/DOF scale that’s displayed in the camera’s viewfinder or LCD.
- In order to use clutch lenses in “genuine” manual focus mode when AF+MF is on, both the lens and the camera have to be set to MF.
What’s next?
In the second edition of this little “firmware trilogy”, I’ll have a look at the new wifi remote control feature of the X-E2. Of course, users of the X30, X100T and X-T1 might also benefit from this article, as those cameras feature the same wifi remote control functionality.
The third and final edition will explain the remaining goodies that are part of the comprehensive X-T1 firmware version 3.00 update, including an as of yet undocumented enhancement regarding the camera’s face detection feature.
For your convenience, here’s a TOC with links to my previous X-PERT CORNER articles:
- First Look: Fujinon XF 50-140mm F2.8 R LM OIS WR
- Using the Fujifilm X100T
- First Look: Fujifilm X30
- First Look: XF18-135mmF3.5-5.6 R LM OIS WR
- X-E2: Behind Firmware 2.00
- First Look: Fujifilm TCL-X100 Teleconverter for X100(S) Cameras
- First Look: Fujinon XF10-24mmF4 R OIS
- First Look: Fujifilm X-T1
- First Look: Fujinon XF56mmF1.2 R
- Exposing Right
- Using Auto-ISO
- Using Face Detection
- First Look: Fujifilm XQ1
- PDAF & LMO Lens Firmware Updates Coming in November
- First Look: Fujifilm X-E2
- How Fuji could save the X-M1
- X-A1 vs. X-M1: Photo Ninja Edition
- X-A1 vs. X-M1: the Shootout
- Using the Fujifilm X-A1 [& X-M1]
- First Look: Fujinon XF23mmF1.4 R
- RAW Converter Shootout Results
- Ultimate RAW Converter Shootout
- First Look: X-M1 with New Kit Zoom and Pancake Lens
- Zeiss Touit vs. Fujinon XF
- Remote Shutter Control for X Series Cameras
- Apple Camera RAW, X-Trans and EXR
- First Look: XF55-200mmF3.5-4.8 R LM OIS
- Studio X
- Using the X100S
- Using the X20
- X100S vs. X100
- X20 vs. X10
- RAW, JPEG, Silkypix and “Fuji Colors”
- Adapting Third-Party Lenses (updated with Speed Booster)
- RAW for JPEG Shooters…
- Tips for Updating your Firmware
- How to Clean the X-Trans Sensor
- Using the XF14mmF2.8 R
- Decoding XF18-55mmF2.8-4 R LM OIS
- Comparing RAW converters: JPEG vs. Lightroom, Capture One, Silkypix & RPP
- XF14mmF2.8 R appears to be almost distortion free
- How to Expand Dynamic Range
- How to Use Extended ISO
- EXR, anyone?
- Capture One – When the Going Gets Tough…
- Using Shooting Profiles and the Quick Menu
Rico Pfirstinger studied communications and has been working as journalist, publicist, and photographer since the mid-80s. He has written a number of books on topics as diverse as Adobe PageMaker and sled dogs, and produced a beautiful book of photographs titled Huskies in Action (German version). He has spent time working as the head of a department with the German Burda-Publishing Company and served as chief editor for a winter sports website. After eight years as a freelance film critic and entertainment writer in Los Angeles, Rico now lives in Germany and devotes his time to digital photography and compact camera systems. His new ebook The Fujifilm X-E2: Beyond the Manual is available at Rocky Nook.
47 Responses
Any screen shots or videos of the feature?
What happens if I turn the focus ring – automatic zoom or just AF highlighting? Any options?
That depends if you’ve got the “focus check” and “focus peaking” features enabled in the settings. If it’s disabled, you just get focus peaking. If it’s enabled, you get magnifaction AND focus peaking.
Can AF+MF be accessed on the new customizable Q menu? Having to set the clutch lenses to MF on the camera as well as the lens is annoying if you want AF+MF with the other lenses, but I’d like a quick way to turn it in or off due to the behavior with the clutch lenses.
Going by Fuji UK website 2.3 is the latest version for X-E1, while Rico mentions 2.4.
This is the firmware update that will be coming out tomorrow.
Extremely useful in low light situations where the lens hunts ! Especially for the first generation primes like 35f1.4, 60 f2.4 !
AF+MF.
A kind of manual override, would that be quicker than using MF in the first place ? Well it’s about chances, focus could be locked wihout hunting.
I’m interested which method is faster, AF+MF or Backbuttonfocus.
Back button focus in MF is MUCH slower on my X100S than autofocus. I think it doesn’t use the PDAF system like AF, even though I always use the centre points.
Anyone know why this is?
Correct back button focus incredible don’t use pdaf!!! (can’t imagine any reason to do that in the first place), but tomorrow firmware update will fix it (for the X-T1 at least)
Backbutton focus (A-FL) works the same ?
This is the question on my mind. With backbutton AF, you already have AF+MF—unless you’re using their best primes which incorporate that stupid clutch mechanism. (Apologies to those who love the clutch mechanism…and help me understand why it exists.)
This.
The clutch is stupid.
Very stupid.
It’s the only problem I see with the 23mm 1.4
Stupid?
Yeah, the distance scale is stupid. The engravings are in ft and m! How useless. I need “Fathom”, “Pica” or “Nautical Miles”! I am a real Pro.
The clutch is stupid. I always forget to switch the A-M dial to M when I open the clutch back. That should be done automatically!
The aperture ring is stupid. The mount is completely ridiculous. The whole lens is actually stupid. Who shoots 35mm anyway??
The best thing I can say about it is this awesome LENS CAP the lens comes with. It fits a coke can perfectly, just in case you need a cover for it, like in hot summer days.
(contains a hint of irony)
Craving for the 1/32000 shutter and not to use ND filters on sunset backlight portraits (56mm at f/1.2) I have 77mm filters + step up adapters so can’t use the lens hood while using it and flare bothers sometimes… last week I needed it… tomorrow will have the same shooting conditions so hope they release it the 18th early 😛
Opening your lens for only 1/32000s for that beautifull girl ?
LOL…
I prefer opening it short than having her burnt or blurred 😛
I think Baker was making a joke regarding he would keep his eyes open at minimum for 200/365d (days) because she’s a good looking subject.
Yes that’s why I Loled
No firware update for X100s… I’m still waiting for an update for faster autofocus like x100t since the hardware is the same of x100!
Thanks a lot Rico.
And still no color focus peaking for xpro1…
When they say December 18th do they mean like beginning of 18th in Australia or like end of 18th in America? =)
Exactly! It’s the 18th in Japan already! Anxiety is killing me…
Nice… and the link would be?…
http://www.fujifilm.com/support/digital_cameras/software/fw_table.html
I guess
If I was Japanese, I would be very disappointed by the lateness.
And here’s the Japanese link: http://fujifilm.jp/support/digitalcamera/download/finepix/xt1.html
Were there any rumors about if, when and what part of the updates will come to the X100/X100s? I would especially like the possibility to use 7 custom buttons just like on the X100t, that electronic shutter and Classic Chrome…
I remember promises of implementing the intervalometer, so I guess there will eventually be an upgrade for the X100S, too. Or maybe they scrapped it due to lacking resources?
Fuji communicated something along the lines of cutting down on firmware updates for older models due to lack of resources.
I do however hope, the X100s is not among those older models – it was still ‘newest generation’ only a couple of weeks ago and definetely newer than the X-E1 and XPro1 that just have been updated 🙁
Fuji, please update X-T1 so flash works in Continuous drive mode!
Rico, I remember reading in your X100T article that the AF algorithms in the X100T were a little more advanced than of the X-T1. Do you know if these more advanced algorithms are still “quietly” sneaking it’s way in the X-T1?
I was told so, yes.
Seriously can’t wait!!
the firmware has been ready (and very well tested) for some time now. I do wonder why they make us wait.
we know Zack and David had a version of x100s firmware with classic chrome. I’m amazed none of these files get leaked onto the internet.
Probably that’s why they are considered professionals, they follow the NDA.
Hi Rico,
Do you know if with the clutch mecanism (which I really don’t like), we will be able to be in MF (on the lens and camera), use the AF-L button to use AF and refine the focus with the focus ring ?
Thanks,
No. In real MF mode, clutch lenses lose everything I consider useful (no AF-L Instant AF, no electronic distance scale, no electronic DOF scale).
Thanks for your answer.
This is still an improvement (I take it with pleasure) but I agree with other comments: the clutch mecanism is a really bad idea considering how useful the use of dof scale, AF-L is !
My preferred shooting mode is MF + use of AF-L , I guess I am not the only one.
anyone know when the firmware is going to arrive? (X-E2)
Thanks Rico.
Are there any plans to have an option to turn of Noise
Reduction on jpg settings ?
I don’t no anything about such plans.
This YouTube movie explains the essential working of AF+MF too.
Sony and Samsung calls it DMF. Sorry, it’s a Samsung movie, but it looks very nice. This is what we can expect tomorrow in the FW update, actually in a few hours from now. Looks great !
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lS7j8t_Vn2I
Had Fujifilm simply mounted their lenses to mechanical helicoids, instant MF override would have been possible from the getgo. No need to learn a new interface, or to download firmware to get the functionality, or design complicated clutches.
I like this feature!!!
To answer Focusseeker’s question below: no, the AF-L button does not work the same in AF+MF mode as in AF mode. Specifically, if one half-presses the shutter button to let the camera focus, pushes the AF-L button, makes a manual correction to the focus, releases the shutter button and half-presses it anew, then the camera focuses again, although the AF-L button has been keeped pressed. Odd.
I think that the following behavior would be an improvement: one should be able to engage the autofocus by half-pressing the shutter button, to freeze the autofocus by pressing AF-L, to release the shutter button, and then to do manual corrections. Two advantages: first, one could correct focus with the aperture fully open (allowing better accuracy); second, with Focus Check engaged, one could have a magnified view to focus accurately (simply by rotating the focus ring), and then revert to the normal view (by half-pressing the shutter button) to frame the scene. But for now, this is a dream.
As a last suggestion (if ever somebody from Fujifilm read this), I wish that the A+M indicator be of the same size and at the same position (in the EVF and on the screen) as the MF indicator. Its current design is alien to the other symbols and its position is bizarre (it is opposite to the MF indicator, and it is not even aligned with its neighbors).