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Head to Head: Olympus E-PL2 vs Panasonic GF2

Do you still have troubles and you don’t know if you should pickup the E-PL2 or the GF2? I checked all the reviews we posted on 43rumors and made a list for all pixel-peepers (chronological order, latest review on top). Check out the table and read the 43rumors readers reviews too! Let me know if I missed to add some interesting review.

A quick reminder for US readers: The Black GF2+14mm is in Stock at Amazon (Click here) and BHphoto (Click here). And today also the body only Black GF2 is in Stock at BHphoto (Click here).




Olympus E-PL2 43rumors user reviews Panasonic GF2 43rumors user reviews
Click here to read user reviews
(you can add your rating if you are a member)
Click here to read user reviews
(you can add your rating if you are a member)
Olympus E-PL2 reviews Panasonic GF2 reviews
RegHardware

Enticingthelight

CNET

Trustedreviews

Cameralabs

Dpreview

DCresource

Steve digicams

Pixelmania

Focus Numerique

DCview

Cameraguide
.
tweakers

Digitalcamerareview

DxOmark


Ascii.jp

DC.watch

CNET Asia

mobile01

yesky

Digitalrev

Digitalcamerainfo
Imaging Resource

Cameralabs

Dpreview

Hybridcams (one
– two
–three
)
BBC

CNET Australia

01net

DxOmark

DCresource

clubic.com

DCview

Focus Numerique
.
Digitalcamerareview

Trustedreviews

Photoreview Australia

Hardwarezone

Ascii.jp

Pocket Lint

Photographyblog

Systemkamera-forum.de
.
Olympus E-PL2 direct shop links Panasonic GF2 direct shop links
[shopcountry 18844] [shopcountry 17361]

[poll id=”44″]

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33 Responses

  1. I don’t like touch screens, I’ve used a lot of them and they all seem to have their own little quirks to them. Buttons, switches, and dials all the way for me.

    I ordered my E-PL2 this morning.

  2. I have a GF-1 and the compromises made for the GF-2 make it feel like a downgrade to me – so I suppose I would pick the E-PL2 by default. Actually, though, the correct answer would be *Neither* for me.

  3. Just ordered my e-pl2 yesterday along with a Sandisk 16GB SDHC Extreme card and an FD lens adapter from Fotodiox.

    “Fotodiox Lens Mount Adapter, Canon FD, New FD, FL Lens to MFT Micro 4/3 Four Thirds System Camera Mount Adapter, for Olympus Pen E-PL1, E-P2, Panasonic Lumix DMC-G1, G2, GH2, GF1, GH1 G10”
    (got it from Amazon)

  4. Image stabilization is a big factor to me, and I prefer the looks of the Olympus jpegs.

    If I was more of a movie guy, I would probably choose Panasonic though.

  5. I find these survey results pretty interesting. It shows that readers of this site are even harder core enthusiasts than I expected.

    I understand the appeal of the EPL2. The two features I wish the GF2 had were in camera stabilization and better jpeg performance. On the other hand I wish the EPL2 had faster focus and was smaller.

    I expect the reason why Panasonic will sell far more GF2s than Olympus will sell EPL2s is because they hit the sweet spot with general consumers a lot better. As you can tell I plan on getting a GF2 and I’m a camera novice. This will be my first interchangeable camera – assuming that I can buy one. The primary reason I’m getting a GF2 is for the faster auto focus speeds. The second reason is because I love the idea of easily controlling depth of field with the touch screen. I’m a fairly new dad, so auto focus speeds are important. I’m buying this camera to take better pictures of my twins and over time I hope to make a hobby out of photography.

    My ideal camera would be a GF2 with the ISO performance of the NEX, the fancy (but less likely for me to use) features of the NEX, and the jpeg engine of the Olympus.

    As for the 95% of haters who wonder why someone would buy a red camera – I’m buying one because my wife thinks it looks good. Plus I think it will be fun to have a camera that people notice, but think of as a toy rather than a “hardcore” camera in case I want to try my hand at street photography later.

    I’m planning to get the 14-42 and add a 20mm lens. Now if only the red 14-42 would become available again state side.

    1. EPL2 AF is fast enough because of faster basic lenses.
      They are MSC (movie still compatible) which is faster and quieter than previous lens.

      BTW: I wanted E-P1 but I was afraid of slow autofocus. But I was in the shop, tried it and is was not as big problem as it is described. Remember: it was with old lens and with first (slower) firmware!

      red camera => I have dark red e-book reader .. it is very nice

  6. Noting that the EPL2 fans outnumber the GF2 fans by margin of 3 to 1 on this forum, I perhaps need to be a little more diplomatic on my biased opinions & comments for the latter! However if you look at sales of these cameras you find the GF2 is probably top dog at present and all those photographers can’t be wrong? Certainly the reviews point out special features on the GF2 like selection of AF points which are better than the competition but I think the smaller size is what is compelling to a majority of buyers.

    First off some reviews with their pictures and comments do show the GF2 is significantly smaller in body especially in top view and more portable in front views and not almost the same as some reviews claim? I think the difference in volume is about 30% less I believe. As Imagining Resources says the GF2 is much closer to the LX5 and NEX 5 in size inspite of having inbody flash and hotshoe compared to the latter.

    Most reviews give the GF2 the edge in AF speeds and performance even more so in low light conditions while a few claim they are about equal the best in their class with no proof.

    While most reviews give the EPL2 higher marks for its JPEGs and resolution none of the comparisons take into consideration the known fact that Pany underrates its ISO by 1/3 of a stop and this naturally hurts them in any comparisons. Another factor distorting the results as many are comparing the EPL2 with the best resolution Pany 20/1.7 lens rather than the kit lens? While most reviews are showing the EPL2 colors and JPEG IQ to be better there are several reviews in those listed on this listing and user examples showing quite a different story with duller colors, overexposure, and poorer detail from noise reduction with the change in low pass filter on the EPL2? Or is this a quality control problem? If you are using primarily the fast Pany 20mm/1.7 or 13mm/2.5 in this case with GF2 then you probably will take the majority of your shots at ISO 400 or less and at those low ISOs you probably would be unable to distinguish between the two?

    The EPL2 principal pluses according to most reviews are its inbody image stabilization and its excellent JPEGs and many like the jazzy filters but for most other features the GF2 is the better camera and especially for video for me at least but not necessarily for you.

    I personally have just started to use my GF1 which I got primarily because I wanted that 20/1.7 kit lens. Both GF2 and EPL2 are very good cameras and no way you could go very far wrong with either one.

    1. Safaridon Says: “However if you look at sales of these cameras you find the GF2 is probably top dog at present and all those photographers can’t be wrong?”

      I am not sure it is a matter of being “wrong” per se – but I just don’t think that the posters on this forum are particularly representative of the buying public in general. For example, most people posting here want fast prime lenses – but the average Joe on the street probably wants a zoom – and isn’t particularly concerned about lens speed because he doesn’t really understand it. That same average Joe likes the gimmicky touch screen – and doesn’t give a fig about manual controls because AUTO mode doesn’t require them. The GF-2 is a pretty obvious attempt to compete more directly with the Sony, and I am sure that Panny is delighted it is selling so well. No supply chain problems there that I have noticed.

      I suspect that the level of interest in m43 from high end photo enthusiasts came as a bit of a surprise to P&O and now they are scrambling to catch up. Roadmaps are likely in a constant state of flux – while they try to decide what target market they really want to dominate. I am sure they would like all of it, but its hard to fight a multi-front war.

      Anyway – it doesn’t surprise me much that a poll of the group here doesn’t reflect the larger buying population.

  7. Don’t like the faux retro design of the E-PL2 – the GF2 is much cleaner and modern, and without dials is more feminine svelte – so no wonder it is a hit with the hip young Japanese. For the enthusiast photographer, the lack of integrated viewfinder in both and the dummied-down controls in the GF2 is frustrating, as the IQ for the camera size is good. Check out the positioning of the GF2 in the current National Geographic (page 13), and it becomes clear that the enthusiast is targeted. Olympus, however, have gone after the enthusiast with the E-Pxx line, and fall short. What we all want is a live view M9 at the GF2/E-PL2 price point. Come on, G3!

  8. I was a P&S person who went with the E-pl2 becasue it offers a smaller overall package compared to the GF2 when considering lenses. Also I like the Oly JPEGS because I do not shoot raw.

    1. Unless post processing is a normal part of your workflow, you are making the right move not shooting RAW. However it does offer major benefits, and once you get used to using it, it is hard to go back.

      1. My story is one of starting from (Oly) JPEGs, moving to RAW (with lightroom 3) and loving it, and then moving back to JPEG (+RAW) and loving it even more. The real important trick about shooting JPEGs, at least for me, is to set custom white balance. Once that is done, the Oly JPEGs are already 80% where I would process the RAW file, while saving me hours and hours of post processing. RAW is now an insurance policy for me, and for the occasional picture that I want to over-process myself.

        If the white balance is spot on, even JPEGs have enough latitude to undergo some lightroom adjustment anyway (if needed, though they rarely do).

        This is why I love the way setting custom white balance can be assigned to the Fn button on my E-P1 (and probably E-PL2 as well?). It’s way easier and more straightforward than similar operation on other DSLRs, for example Nikons. Three button pushes and you’re set.

        1. What method do you use for setting the custom white balance?
          Do you set it for night/indoor shots only or for daylight photographs as well?
          What do you find lacking the most in E-P1 auto white balance?

          1. In the settings menu select “B – Button/dial”, scroll down to “Fn Function” and select “One touch WB”. Now all you need to do is to point the camera at a whitish surface (you can ignore focus), hold the Fn button and press the shutter to take a picture. If the camera is successful, enter “yes” (just press “ok”) and you’re set.

            Any whitish surface will do, including a paper (even with a few things written on it), a wall, a white card, a grey card, snow covered ground, etc. Just make sure there is enough white material there.

            In fact the functionality is much improved in the PEN line compared to my E-1. E-1 has the same functionality, but it’s much more selective on the surface, it really has to be almost white in E-1, but the E-P1 is very forgiving.

            It is much more important for indoor and night shots, but even outside it helps. It just so simple I do it without even thinking before shooting a bunch of pics. In my experience the weakest link in post processing JPEGs is the color cast. If the white balance is exact, I don’t even need RAW. I’ve set my JPEGs to “natural”, +2 sharpness, +1 contrast and 0 saturation and I’m mostly happy with the results (I tend to like contrasty and sharp pics).

            The auto white balance is fine outdoors (and I do rely on it sometimes) but I don’t trust it indoors. Notice that with assigning custom balance to the Fn button, you don’t even need to change the WB mode to custom first. Just point to white, hold Fn and press shutter and then press ok.

          2. @Reza

            Thanks a lot for your reply. I am very sensitive to wrong color cast, much more than noise, corner sharpness or fringing, but many reviewers fail to even mention how good or bad a camera’s auto WB is.

          3. @Miroslav

            There is only so much auto white balance can do, just like auto focus. even the best AF (or AWB) systems are some algorithm’s guess on what you might want in your photo, and it certainly cannot know what you have in your head!

            That’s why I’m so much reliant on custom WB. In my limited experience the custom white balance on Olympus cameras is the most fluent among at least lower end DSLRs like Nikon (D90), Canon (XTi), Pentax (*istDL) and also all Panasonic and Canon P&S cams (including S90). I think this great implementation of custom WB goes hand in hand with the JPEG engine of Olympus.

            I have a similar philosophy with AF on DSLRs, that’s why I don’t have any reason to go back to them. I’m now in love with the AF+MF mode on Olympus (and Panny?) bodies, which lets “me” decide what part of the picture has critical focus.

  9. lol!

    only people on this site dont like the GF2.
    It’s a really good shooter for both pictures and video. Well, it’s way better than E-P2 for video.

  10. Epl2 for IBIS, controls, JPEG results, small kit lens
    I am not convinced Panny should rule out IBIS as it doesn’t really conflict with their OIS lenses. For long telephoto OIS is more effective. For video IBIS does not work. IBIS would be a good complement for Pannys many non OIS lenses. IBUS enables slower shutter speeds AND hence lower ISO – directly addressing the main mft weakness.

  11. PS maybe Panny could design a combined IBIS and OIS system for 5 stops shake reduction? 1 second hand held exposures. ISO 100 every time! ( ok maybe not great for moving subjects….)

  12. Hi !

    Im in the process of choosing a new camera, and I can’t decide between :
    • ep2 with 17mm ;
    • epl2 with a zoom (but I don’t like zoom) ;
    • ep2 (body only) + 14mm pana’ ;
    • waiting 2 more months for next models ?

    All I can say is that I madly miss my old FM2 + 28mm…

    1. I suggest E-PL2 + 20mm. Keep the zoom for some time and if you don’t like it eBay it. 20mm is “the” lens to have on m43.

      1. Thanks Reza. But i’m afraid the 20mm won’t be wide enough for me. I like street photo and I’m very used to have a bit more angle…

        But I never used the 20mm, so I may like it ; I’m gonna try it.

        What about the ep3 ? Next april or next year ?…

        1. I haven’t tried either of the wider primes, but from what I’ve seen on forums both provide around the same IQ and brightness. It’s up to you. There is a rumored 12mm prime (and 50mm) from Olympus for later this year, but who knows. As for E-P3, there were rumors of it coming in June. But my guess is that it will come sometime between July (2 years after E-P1) and before November (2 years after E-P2). Olympus traditionally introduces cameras either in Feb/March (we had E-PL2), June/July (new lenses?), or Sep/Oct (my guess for E-P3). Then again, who knows!

    2. After owning a GF1 for almost a year and a half, i bought an E-PL2 because i wanted IBIS for my many legacy lenses and my Panasonic lenses without stabilization (20mm, 7-14mm). Plus I wanted to upgrade to the improved external viewfinder Olympus offers.

      I love primes, and was planning on immediately selling the kit zoom lens that came with the E-PL2 on eBay. I wasn’t even going to put it on the camera. Just the word “kit zoom lens” makes me want to roll my eyes. But when i pulled the lens out of the box, i was shocked at how tiny and light it is. I decided to spend a day using it, then decide whether to keep it. I’m keeping it! I may usually have a prime on my camera, but that little zoom lens is with me at all times when i need versatility – it lives in my messenger bag when i’m not using it, and i dont even notice it’s there.

      My general impressions between going from a GF1 to an E-PL2:
      -Autofocus is perfectly fine on the Olympus. Was probably just the earlier Olympus lenses and the older firmware that was noticeably slower.
      -Really like the grip on the E-PL2.
      -Really miss the useful buttons and layout on the GF1. I’ve remapped a few buttons on the E-PL2 but it’s just not the same.
      -I do prefer the boxy, Soviet look to the GF1.
      -Video quality is SO MUCH BETTER on the Panasonic.
      -Battery life on the Panasonic is much better too (may be because the Olympus EVF draws a lot of power). But the Olympus battery is smaller too. But 3rd-party batteries are available for Olympus so it’s affordable to have backups – i bought two for $8 each and they work great.
      -It’s fantastic having stabilization on ALL my lenses now with the E-PL2. (I just turn off IBIS when I’m using a Panasonic lens with OIS – 14-140mm or 100-300mm).
      -Electronic Viewfinder on the Olympus is OUTSTANDING. It alone is reason enough for the upgrade. When i look in the EVF on my GF1 now, it’s laughable! (At least the Panasonic version was half the price of the Olympus EVF).
      -I feel like I can get about a stop better ISO on the Olympus, though I’m sure it all depends on each lighting situation.

      So Panasonic and Olympus both make great cameras – too bad i can’t the best of both worlds in one body. And one thing i learned – don’t be afraid of a kit zoom lens. 😉

  13. The comparison vote is quite interesting with 3:1 preferring the Olympus. It seems a little strange as I believe the Panasonic is probably the stronger seller.
    At the recent Focus exhibition I made a point of comparing them as I am looking for something along these lines – most probably a compact body with detachable viewfinder and 2 pancake lenses.
    Personally I feel the Olympus looks better, also the IS and the grip seem advantages to me, although the GF2 scores for being slightly smaller. There seems little difference in quality between them. As my only realistic lens option is to pair the 14 & 20mm Panasonic lenses, the pricing structure means the Olympus body option would be around £200 more expensive over the desired outfit. So overall I would say I prefer the Olympus, but I would be more likely to buy the Panasonic.
    Of course, the GF1 is still an option, but interestingly staff from Panasonic said the GF2 was the replacement for the GF1, and the 2011 G range catalogue there seemed to confirm this by not listing the GF1.
    Of course, the low voting preference for the GF2 in the could be an indication of dissatisfaction with the direction Panasonic are taking the GF series after such a promising start.
    Another option open to me is the Samsung NX100, which will have a nicer lens pairing with the 30mm soon to be joined by a 16mm. If only the body didn’t feel as secure as holding a bar of soap!! There was no official presence from Samsung at Focus despite their rhetoric about soon taking the no. 1 position in mirrorless…..

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