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(FT5) Full E-M5 specs leaked (via google cache)

A couple of hours ago I told you that the new sensor-imaging processor produces 40% less noisy images (compared to previous PNE cameras). And Olympus uses a very weak Anti-Aliasing filter following the tendency to reduce Moire via software (the Fuji X PRO 1 and the just announced Nikon D800E  (Click here) don’t use any AA at all).In a few hours (2am London time) we will finally see if the image quality is really that good!

And finally a north american website leaked the full E-M5 specs. I found it through google cache and copied and pasted the text as I found it:

Memory card: SD Memory Card (SDHC, SDXC, UHS-I compatible, Eye-Fi Card compatible)
Sensor: 4/3 Live MOS Sensor 16.1 million pixels (total pixel 16.9 million pixels)
Dust reduction: Supersonic Wave Filter
Recording format: DCF, DPOF compatible / Exif, PRINT Image Matching III, MPO compatible
File format: RAW (12-bit lossless compression), JPEG, RAW+JPEG, MPO(3D still)
IS system: Built-in (Image sensor shift type for movie & still, 5-axis image stabilization) -> yaw/pitch/vertical shift/horizontal shift/rolling. Effective compensation range maximum 5 EV steps
Shutter speed range: 60 – 1/4000 sec. (Not available when Bulb is selected)
Electronic viewfinder: Eye-level electronic viewfinder, approx. 1.44M
Eye point / Diopter adjustment range Approx. 100% / Approx. 0.92x*1 – 1.15x*2 (-1m-1, 50mm lens, Infinity) *1 : at Finder Style 1, 2 (aspect 4:3) *2 : at Finder Style 3 (aspect 4:3)
Approx. 18mm (-1m-1, Distance from rear lens surface) / -4 ~ +2m-1
Available with Live Preview function button [custom function]
Level Gauge 2-axis level gauge; horizontal /vertical
Finder Style Selectable from 3 types
Brightness / Colour temperature control ±7 levels / ±7 levels
EyeCup Removable, Optional eyecup EP-11 is available.
LCD screen: Live view 100% field of view, Exposure compensation preview, WB adjustment preview, Gradation auto preview, Face detection preview (up to 8 faces), Grid line, Histogram, Magnification display (x5/x7/x10/x14) OFF Grid/ Monitor Display Types, Normal Mode, Grid Line Mode(4 types), Histogram Mode, Magnified View Mode, Magnification Ratio x5, x7, x10 (Default) x14.
LCD information: Aperture value, Shutter speed, Auto Bracket, AE Lock, AF mode, IS, Shooting Mode, Battery Check, Myset, Internal Temperature Warning, Face / Eye Detection, Histogram, Number of storable still pictures, Record mode, ISO, Sequential shooting, Self-timer, White Balance, Metering Mode, AF confirmation mark, Exposure Compensation Value, Spot metering Area
Flash Mode, Flash Status, Flash intensity Control, Super FP Focusing length, Tone control, Eye-Fi condition Display of Face Detection Max 8 frames of face detection can be displayed.
LCD Specs: 3.0-inch tilting OLED monitor, Approx. 610k dots, Touch control in electrostatic capacitance Type, Touch control Touch shutter release, Touch enlargement, Touch Live Guide, AF area selection, AF area enlargement, Frame advance/backward, Enlargement playback, Touch Super Control Panel, Tilting angle Upward tilting angle : up to 80 degrees / Downward tilting angle : up to 50 degrees, Brightness / Color temperature control ±2 levels / ±3 levels Color tone select Vivid / Natural
AF system: High-speed imager AF
Focus modes Single AF (S-AF) / Continuous AF (C-AF)* / Manual Focus (MF) / S-AF + MF / AF tracking (C-AF + TR) *
Full-time AF Available
Maginified frame AF Selectable from over 800 AF points
Enlarged view check by magnify button
Magnification x5, x7, x10(Default), x14 selectable
Face detection AF / Eye detection AF Available / Available
Eye Detection AF mode : OFF / Nearer-eye priority / Right-eye priority / Left-eye priority
Focusing point / Focusing point selection 35-area multiple AF / All target, Group target area (9-area), Single target
AF illuminator Yes
Manual focus assist Live view image is magnified when the focus ring is rotated. (at S-AF+MF or MF mode)
AF tracking
Metering system: TTL Image sensor metering. Digital ESP metering (324-area multi pattern metering), Center weighted average metering, Spot metering, Spot metering with highlight control, Spot metering with shadow control
Metering range EV 0 – 20 (at normal temperature, 17mm f2.8, ISO 100)
Exposure modes: i Auto, P: Program AE (Program shift can be performed), A: Aperture priority AE, S: Shutter priority AE, M: Manual, Bulb, Time, Scene select AE, Art Filter, Underwater wide / macro* * Selectable from menu as a function on Fn-1/Rec button
Scene Select AE Modes: Portrait, e-Portrait, Landscape, Landscape + Portrait, Sport, Night, Night + Portrait, Children, High Key, Low Key, DIS mode, Macro, Nature Macro, Candle, Sunset, Documents, Panorama, Fireworks, Beach & Snow, Fisheye Conv., Wide Conv., Macro Conv., 3D * * Still image only
ISO sensitivity: AUTO: ISO 200 – 25600 (customizable, Default 200-1600) / Manual ISO 200 – 25600, 1/3 or 1 EV steps selectable. Exposure compensation ±3 EV in 1/3, 1/2, 1 EV steps selectable
AE lock Locked at 1st release of shutter button (can be set to Fn1/Rec button). Metering standard value adjustment 1/6 EV step, +/- 1EV range
Shutter: Computerized focal-plane shutter. Shutter speed 1/4000 – 60 sec. (1/3, 1/2, or 1EV steps selectable.). Bulb: default setting 8min. (1/2/4/8/15/20/25/30 min. selectable.)
Flash: TTL Auto, Auto, Manual, FP-TTL AUTO, FP-MANUAL
Built-in flash: No
Bundled flash (FL-LM2): TTL flash, GN=10 (ISO200・m) / GN=7(ISO100・m). Flash mode Flash Auto, Redeye, Fill-in, Flash Off, Red-eye Slow sync.(1st curtain), Slow sync.(1st curtain), Slow sync.(2nd curtain), Manual(1/1(FULL)~1/64). Synchronization speed 1/250sec. or less* (using the bundled flash) * It depends on flash models or flash mode
FL-50R: 1/180 sec., Exept FL-50R: 1/200 sec., Super FP: 1/125-1/4000 sec.
Flash intensity control Up to ±3 EV in 0.3, 0.5, 1 EV steps selectable
Compatible external flash FL-50/FL-50R, FL-36/FL-36R, FL-30, FL-20, FL-14, FL-300R, FL-600R
Colour Temperature 5500±400°K
Compatible external flash FL-50R, FL-36R, FL-300R, FL600R
Control method: Triggered and controlled by bundled flash (FL-LM2) ** Available on FL-LM1/ FL-600R. (Olympus Wireless RC Flash system compatible). 4 channels. Group Number 4 groups (External flash 3 groups + a bundled flash)
Drive mode:  Single-frame shooting, Sequential shooting, Self-timer. Sequential shooting  maximum speed [Sequential shooting H mode] 9.0 fps. [Sequential shooting L mode] 3.5 fps / 4.2fps  in case of “I.S. OFF”.
Max. recordable pictures:  on sequential shooting [RAW] Max. 17 frames (in seq. shooting L), Max. 11 frames (in seq. shooting H)
[JPEG] Up to full extent of data strage capacity (in seq. shooting L),
Max. 17 frames ( in seq. shooting H)
(with TOSHIBA SDHC UHS-I card R95-W80 8GB model, under Olympus test standard)
Self-timer Operation time: 12 sec., 2 sec. (cancel available)
Wireless remote control Not Available
Bracketing: Exposure bracketing 2, 3 or 5 frames in 0.3/0.7/1.0EV steps selectable, 7 frames in 0.3/0.7EV steps selectable. White balance bracketing 3 frames in 2, 4, 6 steps selectable in each A-B/G-M axis. Flash bracketing 3 frames in 0.3/0.7/1.0EV step selectable Art Filter bracketing i-Enhance, Vivid, Natural, Muted, Portrait, Monotone, Custom, Art Filters selectable
Art Filter:  Mode (Variation / Effect) Pop Art (I, II / a.b.c.d.e.). Soft Focus ( – / c.e.) Pale & Light Color (I, II / a.b.c.d.) Light Tone ( – / d.) Grainy Film (I, II / b.c.d.) Pin Hole (I, II, III / d.) Diorama ( – / d.) Cross Proscess (I, II / b.c.d.) Gentle Sepia ( – / a.b.c.d.) Dramatic Tone (I, II / b.c.d.e.) Key Line (I, II / a.b.c.d.e.) Art Effect a. Soft Focus Effect b. Pin-Hole Effect c. White Edge Effect d. Frame Effect e. Star Light Effect
Movie: Recording format MOV(MPEG-4AVC/H.264) , AVI(Motion JPEG) Movie Mode MOV(MPEG-4AVC/H.264 ),AVI(Motion JPEG)
[MOV] Full HD: 1920(H)x1080(V), 59.94i Recording *3 20Mbps(Fine) *4 / 17Mbps(Normal) *4 : Aspect 16:9 HD: 1280(H)x720(V), 59.94i Recording *3, 13Mbps(Fine) *4 / 10Mbps(Normal) *4 : Aspect 16:9 *3 : Sensor output 30fps *4 : bitrate [AVI Motion JPEG] HD: 1280(H)x720(V), 30fps *4, Aspect 16:9 SD: 640(H)x480(V), 30fps *4, Aspect 4:3 *4 : Except for some of the Art Filters
Maximum Recording Times Full HD : Approx. 29min(Fine) / Approx. 22min(Normal)
HD : Approx. 29min(Fine) / Approx. 29min(Normal)
Movie Effect : One shot echo / Multi echo
Art Filter Movie, Aperture priority Movie, Shutter Priority Movie, Manual Shooting Movie
IS for Movie Built in (Image sensor shift type image stabilization)
IS1. mode only
AE Lock Avarable
Exposure control (Movie)
P: Program AE, A: Aperture priority AE, S: Shutter speed priority AE, M: Manual, Art Filter
* S mode and M mode : Shutter speed is limited in less than 1/30 sec.
Compression ratio Motion-JPEG Format : 1/12(HD), 1/8(SD)
File size:
MOV Format : Max 4GB
Motion-JPEG Format : Max 2GB
Recording format Wave Format (Stereo linear PCM/16-bit, Sampling frequency 48kHz)
Micophone/Speaker:
Stereo/Mono
Microphone function Wind Noise Reduction, Recording Volume
Audio dubbing possible for still pictures (up to 30 sec.)
Picture with Sound: 30sec.
Noise reduction:
At High ISO setting Off, Low, Standard, High
At Slow shutter speed Off, On, Auto
On : effective when shutter speed is slower than 1 sec.
Auto : effective when shutter speed is slower than 4 sec. (at ISO 200 or higher) or 8 sec. (at lower than ISO200)
Multiple exposures:
Number of picture / Function 2 frames / Auto gain, Exposing on Recorded picture(RAW)
INPUT/OUTPUT:
USB/AV/Remote controller connector Dedicated multi-connector [USB: USB2.0 High Speed, Video: NTSC/PAL selectable, Optional Remote cable RM-UC1 can be used.]
HDMI connector Micro HDMI (Type-D)
Flash attachment Hot shoe
Accessory Port 2 Dedicated multi-connector [Available for VF-2/VF-3, SEMA-1, MAL-1 and PP-1.]
PC interface USB 2.0 High Speed
TV interface HDMI (HD/Stereo Sound), VIDEO-OUT(SD/Mono Sound)
DC-in – [Optional Power Battery Holder HLD-6 has DC-IN jack for AC-3.]
Power requirements:
Battery BLN-1 Li-ion battery (included)
Power battery holder (Option) Power Battery Holder HLD-6
AC adaptor (Option) AC adapter AC-3 *Optional HLD-6 has DC-IN jack for AC-3.
Sleep mode Available (1/3/5 min. off selectable)
Number of recordable pictures Approx. TBD shots [IS ON, CIPA test standard]
(with BLN-1 and TOSHIBA super high-speed Class 6 SDHC 4GB card)
Weights/Dimensions:
Dimensions 4.8 inch (W) x 3.5 inch (H) x 1.7 inch (D)
[CIPA guideline compliant, excluding protrusions]
Weight Approx. 15 ounces [CIPA guideline compliant, with BLN-1 battery and Memory card]
Approx. 13 ounces [body only]
Temperature 32 ~ +104 (operation) / -4 ~ +140 (storage) Farhenheit
Humidity 30 – 90% (operation) / 10 – 90% (storage)
Box contents Body, Flash FL-LM2, Li-ion battery BLN-1, Li-ion battery charger BCN-1, USB cable, AV cable, Shoulder strap, OLYMPUS Viewer 2 (CD-ROM), Instruction manual, Warranty card

—–

This is the first digital OM camera that will be added to the long list of OM film cameras. Click on the names to see them on eBay (ordered by first announced camera): [shoplink 28221 ebay]M-1[/shoplink], [shoplink 28222 ebay]OM-1[/shoplink], [shoplink 28223 ebay]OM-1 MD[/shoplink], [shoplink 28224 ebay]OM-1N[/shoplink], [shoplink 28225 ebay]OM-2[/shoplink], [shoplink 28226 ebay]OM-2N[/shoplink], [shoplink 28227 ebay]OM-2S/SP[/shoplink], [shoplink 28228 ebay]OM-3[/shoplink], [shoplink 28229 ebay]OM-3Ti[/shoplink], [shoplink 28230 ebay]OM-4[/shoplink], [shoplink 28231 ebay]OM-4T/Ti black and chrome[/shoplink], [shoplink 28232 ebay]OM-10[/shoplink], [shoplink 28233 ebay]OM-20 (OM-G)[/shoplink], [shoplink 28234 ebay]OM-30(OM-F)[/shoplink], [shoplink 28235 ebay]OM-40 (OM-PC)[/shoplink], [shoplink 28236 ebay]OM-77AF (OM-707)[/shoplink], [shoplink 28237 ebay]OM-88 (OM-101)[/shoplink], [shoplink 28238 ebay]OM-2000[/shoplink].

—-

Rumors classification explained (FT= FourThirds):
FT1=1-20% chance the rumor is correct
FT2=21-40% chance the rumor is correct
FT3=41-60% chance the rumor is correct
FT4=61-80% chance the rumor is correct
FT5=81-99% chance the rumor is correct

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279 Responses

    1. 1080i and 720p @ 30 FPS. 🙁 Definitely no match for the GH2’s 1080p @ 30 FPS and 720p @ 60 FPS. I guess I will just have to wait for the GH3 then.

        1. > and brews coffee.

          If that is an unsweetened Turkish coffee, then I’ll take one, please. Thanks.

          P.S. Irony aside, brewing decent coffee is a hustle which is magnitudes more burdensome than changing lenses on a DSLR. I’d easily pay few hundred bucks for a machine which can brew Turkish style coffee. Espresso/Italian style machines: please do not bother.

    1. The absence of focus peaking is bad, indeed. The camera would be perfect then for both the Voigtländer lenses and tons of legacy lenses. I really don’t need a built in flash, I guess most people don’t and you can put a decent flash or use the accessory to remote trigger a decent flash, no loss there.

      1. lots of specs still missing: white balance options, aspect ratios,Flash X-sync speed, B&W toning options etc

        what is One shot echo and multi shot echo?

        Panorama doesn’t sound like it’s in camera stitching 🙁

        Audio dubbing possible for still pictures (up to 30 sec.) sounds useful

        Audio quality looks like it will be good

        @ admin
        you’ll need to lose some of your widgets, related posts and reduce your front page post count for a couple of days (you probably know this already)

      1. It’s a shame that you picked now to leave m4/3 – just when we get our best camera ever. You must really like legacy glass. I tried it, and had a collection of some of the best lenses from different manufacturers, but i just ended up selling my last legacy lens.

        1. i still like to work with MF but i dont use peaking after trying it several times on my GXR, maybe its good for quick focusing, but not for spot on when using very shallow dof

          1. Correct. And I think the GXR has the best implementation. I utilise it for street photography with lenses that have focus tabs.

            It’s an issue I would only care about with the XPro1 and NEX because the lens lineup is either abysmal or doesn’t constitute to the company’s industrial design ethos (Fuji’s use of standard focus-by-wire with no variability like with some M43 Zuikos). I have a large legacy lens cache but have been looking for a system that I can mature into. Who knew M43 would get back on track?

            Mark my words focus peaking will end up in a firmware update.

            But in summary, after many years of waiting (and buying a GXR as a kind of stop-gap) I think I may delve into the OM-D. The build quality is at pro-level and at right form-factor (and doesn’t need “pro” in its name), the new generation sensor seems really up to snuff (Nikon-level voodoo magic maybe?), plus the EVF is integrated and will be acceptable. Those were always my major qualms with M43.

      2. I was using peaking on NEX cameras and found it useless, not acurate, if I were you I’d try it before buying a camera based on the existence of peaking function. I get MUCH better results using magnificaiton focus assist than using peaking on NEX.

        1. Totally correct.
          I’ve had a NEX available for a fortnight and allthough focus peaking can help quick focussing for a zone, I discovered that critical focus is very difficult to achieve.

          Magnified view on a Pana with just one click is better than focus peaking, I sure hope Olympus OM-D uses one button press action to do it as well.

          In another threat a few days ago I allready said focus peaking is highly overrated, and I still stand by that opinion.

      3. Focus peaking is not a panacea for manual focusing aids. Contrast thresholds vary from lens to lens, as well as at different aperture settings. This is why bodies that have peaking also tend to have very tweakable settings on thresholds.

        Focus peaking is great for quick and dirty focusing (eg, in video capture where it is commonplace), but it is not always the best option for critical focus.

        I’d love to have it if I could, but I wouldn’t base my buying decisions solely on its presence or absence.

      4. you will regret….if this is the only reason for you
        don’t fool yourself, there are so many benefits for this camera/system over sony….maybe you will buy a GH-2 to, when the price drops, and one of the unique lenses and and and….

    2. Reading about focus peaking it looks as if its pretty much a firmware issue. I wonder if it will be added later……
      One could hope they are working on something that needs tweaking or even just licensing.

    3. +1000. Internal flash is still quite helpful from time to time. And, really wish to have peaking mode on the M43 systems.

    4. And no headphone jack for monitoring sound while recording video & on playback? Um, it’s 2012 Olympus. Ugh.

      But this new OM-D E-M5 looks like a nice stills cam. 🙂

      Meanwhile, the new & way more expensive ($3K US) & larger/heavier full-frame Nikon D800 looks semi-promising for video, although the jury is still out on its video quality. But at least it includes a $0.02 US headphone jack.

      It’ll be interesting to see what the GH3 offers … when it finally ships to the US, what, in 2013 … 🙁

    1. You can bet that’s a number from the marketing department, not from an engineer 😉

      Let’s assume that for a certain lens you get (without IS) 99% sharp images at 1/250 and 0% at 1/8 of a second (that is 5 stops).

      Then again assume that with IS enabled you get 90% sharp images at 1/60 (2 stops) and 5% sharp ones at 1/8 (5 stops).

      Now guess what number ends up in the brochures 🙂

      Yes, I am completely fabricating those percentages, but based on the IS tests done by DPReview (a shame they stopped doing those tests btw) it is clear that the actual _usefulness_ of IS is a couple of stops less than the advertised _effectiveness_

      1. that may be true, but fact is that i get significant less pictures ruined by camera shake since i started using Olympus IBIS(bot FT and MFT) cameras…..now since 6 months the # of images with blur caused by camera shake returns using the GXR from Ricoh (with M module)

    2. Let’s see some independent testing before believing marketing hype.

      Like they say, if it looks too good to be true, then it probably is.

      1. I’d say it is too good to be true.

        Something manufacturers never tell you is for what focal length they claim those stops of improvement. IBIS (of any brand) becomes progressively less effective the longer the focal length and the shorter the focusing distance. IBIS for macro shooting is practically useless, which is something they should tell you in the instruction manual.

        But anyway, some stabilisation is better than none, and even if the E-M5 only ends up offering a 3 stop improvement, it’s still a good thing.

    1. Yeah, that’s pretty much the calculus here, too 🙂

      Either that or buy a used EP3 as the price falls, and super glue a VF2 onto it 😉

      1. I sold my E-PL1 at the end of last year. I still have the VF-2. I don’t have to buy a camera anytime soon, I am good with what I have, but if I see price drops on the street price of the X-Pro1 (I can dream, can’t I?!), I’d rather go for that. The E-M5 however is the camera we always demanded on this site. Now Olympus finally delivers and I am still torn – the agony!

  1. Well, looks more and more like my next digital camera. Perfect digital team mate to my OM-1, OM-1n, OM-2, OM-2n, OM-4 and OM-4Ti 🙂

  2. 12-bit raw – maximum 12 stops of DR

    I guess it’s theoretically possible that the sensor is improved somewhat, but I’d still expect to see the “good” old 10.1-10.5 EV.

    1. This is exactly what we should expect. It’s unfortunate. Everything else in this price range, and some much cheaper cameras like the Rebel T3i, are using a 14-bit pipeline.

  3. Hm.. okay.. but does it have 15-16 steps of dynamic range? Because thats all we need.. shutter, aperture and iso has been here for how many years now..

        1. Try to print. You will be amazed how much better it looks than the file on your computer. I am ~young (26) and I print all my good shots.

          1. Maybe to you. I print some of the shots but they always look worse. Maybe you have a bad LCD? I have quite good Eizo with C-PVA and a tablet with IPS.

    1. @ Danonino
      If you really need 15-16 steps of dynamic range, buy some good HDR software. You’ll certainly need it, not only for the G3, GX1 and the OM-D cameras – but also for your wet dream cameras.

    2. 15-16 steps of DR?!?!?

      That’s insane. Not only would you need full 16-bit perfect AD-converters but you’d have no way of presenting that. Normal slide film had a DR of 7-8 steps and that’s still recognized as a “professional” tool (ok, projected slide is said to have a greater range of 9-10 steps). Normal color film has a range of 8-12 steps (meaning you could usually underexpose 1-2 stops, push and still have the 7 steps necessary for a decent print).

      What you need to do is use filters (circ pol, graduated ND) to lower the DR of the scene before taking the shot. And use proper exposure metering. The Panasonic sensor is a bit more like slide film if you compare to a FF or the Sony Nex 5 sensor. Be careful with your exposures and you should be ok.

  4. This is what to expect from Oly. Some incremental improvements. The thing that I’m delighted with is the new sensor. Oly can do amazing things with ancient sensors, so I’d like to see what they do with this one.

    Other things the specs seem to indicated: the .mov (h264) shooting is interlaced only? (720 and 1080 i at 60fps), but MJPG is 720p (naturally). Didn’t see 24fps, but I didn’t look that hard.

    Seemed to indicate actual sensor stabilization in movie mode? (these specs could also be wrong. I find even DPR is off on some things).

    5 axis IS includes “rolling” — is that marketing speak for no more SW-based IS (the extreme jello effect) and now sensor IS (mode 1 only)?

    No idea what the hype around the VF was. Sounds like the EVF2 bolted on (which is fine, by the way).

    Only 3.5fps with IS on in normal mode. Isn’t this close to what the EP3 gets now? Is this the same old shutter? It also says “computerized focal plane shutter” — is that standard shutter? Are they getting the high FPS with some sort of global shutter? My EPM1 will still get more fps.

    Not really any bigger than the EP3, just a tad taller, and the eyepiece seems to stick out in the back more.

    1. >Oly can do amazing things with ancient sensors, so I’d like to see what they do with this one.

      Oly’s jpegs are very good, but it cannot do magic with the sensor raw output. Personally I’m fine with the performance of the new sensor at high ISO, but low ISO is still similar to the old one, and far, far from APS-C sensors. Look at these crops taken from imaging-resource.com (from raw, processed with RawTherapee, no NR applied):

      http://img703.imageshack.us/img703/2179/baseisocomp.jpg

      (The G3 has a base ISO of 160, but I used the ISO 200 to see how the new E-M5 will perform at base ISO which is 200).

      As you can see, the difference is big, especially with the great sensor from Sony used in the D5100. Of course the APS-C sensors also have the advantage of having a base ISO 100 instead of 200, but that’s the way it is. Panasonic really needs to improve the base ISO performance of its sensors, and start at ISO 50 to be competitive.

      1. “As you can see, the difference is big, especially with the great sensor from Sony used in the D5100.”

        Now you know what to buy then. Don’t let the doorknob hit you in the behind on the way out.

          1. The sample isn’t any indication. It is pretty well known fact that Nikon speculatively manipulates the “point of black”. At base ISO you can get similar to Nikon images from any camera – by similarly changing the parameter during RAW development. (Well, at least that is my experience with prev gen cameras.) Many people get confused by it. I was too. Was discussed few years ago at the DPR’s Oly DSLR forums.

          2. Did you really look at the images? I think that to get a similar result to the Nikon D5100 with the E-P3 raw file is simply not possible. The Nikon file has all the details in the shadow area and little noise. The E-P3 file has no detail at all and just a lot of noise. With noise reduction or by manipulating the black point, you could get a clean black area, but you will never get any level of detail.

      2. That D5100 looks like NR is turned on. Look at the lack of detail throughout the cutaway and on the briquettes. It’s horrible.

        And the G3 seems to hold up well compared to the Canon offering there. It might be a bit noisier, but not by too much, and compared to the D5100, I’d take that G3 shot any day. Detail cannot be recovered, but noise can be carefully removed.

        1. On RawTherapee NR was off, another thing is if the raw provided by Nikon is half cooked.

          I think the lack of detail is mostly due to out of focus region (this images are taken in very low light, so focusing is often missed). But I think that if it was correctly focused it would also have very little noise (other areas of the picture are more in focus and also show little noise).

          I agree that if the G3 had ISO 100 it could compare very well to the Canon sensor. But to match the Nikon/Sony one it would require ISO 50.

        1. Poor focusing and lens differences may be clouding the comparison.
          Unless you use a flat plane object and the exact same lens and aperture setting on each camera you cannot make reliable comparisons. Let’s wait and see what Dx0 finds.

          1. Yes, the focusing error makes the comparison not completely accurate. But I think it’s still quite revealing. And it just goes with DxO mark’s findings (and any other site), so it’s not like I’m saying anything new. Just wanted to illustrate it with a picture (not perfect one, I can agree).

    1. 60p would require a sensor that’s capable of outputting 60 fps. Only the GH2 sensor can do that (but the GH2 still doesn’t support 60p, it’s somewhat of a niche format).

        1. Well, no. True 60p would require a sensor that’s capable of outputting a 60 fps signal. No firmware can change that.

  5. IBIS in video mode is pretty cool, as opposed to digital IS like old Pens. There’s no mention of 24P mode, which worries me a bit. Bitrate seems low for H 264, I think Canon is 44 Mb/s.

  6. IS looks fantastic. I like everything a out this. Akers except the viewfinder magnification. 1.15x with a 50mm lens means its MUCH smaller than the Panasonic VF, which is 1.4x. The Panny EVF is comparable in size to a FF DSLR, while this is comparable to an APS-C DSLR.

    1. And what about the three VF styles? I suppose style 1 and 2 is with the shooting information outside the VF image and style 3 is with the VF image covering the entire EVF (with data in the image, the usual way) since the magnification is different.

    2. I’m also bummed that Olympus chooses a lower magnification for their EVF’s. It’s not a deal breaker for me, but I’m none too happy about it. Since I still regularly use a Pentax LX (which has the best view finder I’ve ever seen this side of medium format) anytime I see a view finder smaller than Panny’s 1.4x I feel like I’m looking at a very small window.

    1. I’m not sure… could care less about 30p, but 24 p is essential. Unless it’s 24p recorded into 60i format, which would be fine, (essentially the same as 24p). But there’s no indication of that.

      I thought we had heard 24p rumored a while ago?

      1. 60i is actually best for video. 24p looks good only as long as there is no movement. Of course 60p is even better but there’s no chance of that.

        1. I can understand preferring 30p or 60p to 24p. But 60i?! Interlaced is a format that should have died a decade ago.

    2. It’s gotta be focus speed because the GH2 is better at everything else.

      And where is the dramatically increase in DR?

      All this hype had to to take some hits (even though the camera looks good so far)…

    1. Olympus doesn’t supply a wireless remote control, but given it takes the RM-UC1 shutter release, you can find various clone wireless shutter releases on ebay for $20 or so.

        1. Yes, your E-PL1 does not support the wired shutter releases. All Pens before and since do support it. And the google cache specs list RM-UC1 compatibility as well. I suspect that Olympus wanted to create a division between the E-P2 and the cheaper E-PL1, so that people who want more advanced features have to buy the more expensive body with the higher return on investment. I would imagine they were convinced after the E-PL1 came out, that it was counter-productive to disable it in the E-PL1. So the next generation of low cost body (the E-PM1) does support the wired shutter release.

          The only real solutions are either to hack up a mechanical shutter release for a wired shutter release (which I’ve done, it isn’t that hard), or buy a rather over-priced device (for $200) that has a mechanical plunger that gives you a shutter release.

  7. Ok, still mechanical shutter (=noise, flash sync), still 12 bit raw.. hmmm. Not exactly what I hoped, but still a step in the right direction. I still think Nex 7 seems like a better deal.

      1. Is this a rumour site, or a fanboi site? If people don’t like something, let them sat it – no need to tell them where to go.

  8. Video specifications kinda suck. How will this beat GH2? Also no focus peaking. It says “Live view image is magnified when the focus ring is rotated.” How will it know where I want to magnify. Also it won’t work on legacy glass. 🙁

      1. I know magnified view works on all lenses. But the magnification won’t be activated by turning the focus ring on legacy lenses.

        1. No, but it works by pushing a button, you adjust focus and press the shutter to see the full frame without the magnified view box.
          Very straightforward and very effective for critical focus.

    1. It can’t beat the GH2, because the GH2 sensor has unique video features. Still looks good, might be good enough. You can set the shutter manually, that’s what really matters.

  9. I wonder if when the grip is used you could use the wheels around the shutter
    buttons for different purposes…

    one for shutter speed and the other for aperture…

    It looks like both would be accessible with the index finger.

  10. Still no focus peaking ? but why ?
    Now my only hope is panasonic

    0.92 is the magnification of the evf ?
    I hope it’s better than the vf2 and vf3.

    1. No Focus peaking bcoz they want to sell you their AF lenses…

      It makes more sense to them than allowing you to use legacy mf lenses like Sony who is aware that their lens lineup on the NEX is poor…

  11. The video specs seem a little confusing, but it looks like the sensor might output at 30p. Nobody is using interlaced video anymore.

  12. Like I said, sensor output is 30 fps. So it’s not going to have the movie capability of the GH2. Still might be good enough though, seems you can set shutter manually, that’s the most important thing.

  13. While this cam has loads of going for her, i do love the design and weather sealing,

    But i’m shooting GH1 since 2009, and frankly, buying the same sensor/evf camera in 2012 does not make ANY sense to me.

    *GH1 sensor is the best M43 sensor to date (the latter, non-banding samples)

  14. Video at least until we hear more info is lacking. Would have been really nice to have had 24, 25, 30, 60 plus getting rid of the record limit(although not as big of a deal as the frame rate choices). I like the stabilization part though.
    Will pass if it doesn’t have 24.

  15. No progressive FullHD mode? No built-in flash? No high DR sensor? Still a humpy EVF with only 1.44 mpix? mFT will have a hard time until REALLY competitive concepts can catch up with NEX & Co.

  16. One word: DISAPPOINTING.

    – I only shoot AVI-videos: poor selection of settings.
    – No focus peaking.
    – No revolutionary VF.
    – And I’m starting to believe that the IQ is identical to GX1. Not as good as I’d hoped.
    – No built-in bounce flash.

    Maybe I’ll wait for the next release and see what’s coming after the summer…

    1. Yes, you and the other non-photographers can wait as long as you like. Meanwhile, that helps the rest of us get the camera more quickly.

      1. LOL! So I’m a non-photographer now? You gotta be kidding me. =D

        I said “I only shoot AVI-videos” meaning the videos I shoot are in AVI-format (so I can edit them). Why on Earth would I use a m4/3 camera to ONLY shoot video? 😛

    2. +1

      1080 60i
      20mbit/s
      no focus peaking
      no revolutional VF
      for 1000€ are you kidding? I was hoping for way better functions and specs.. sorry oly but what I see is only a weathersealed G3 with built in stabilization and not fully titlable oled screen for almost 3x the price.. no thanks

      1. I’m with you on this – there is nothing revolutionary bar the IS…

        The rest is G3 tech…

        Oly manages to get everyones hopes up AGAIN and then dash them with a very average & expencive machine!

        They could have done sooo much more!

        1080 60p
        PDAF,
        Optical/electronic VF
        high res LCD
        Better than the standard panasonic sensor…
        Peaking
        HDR

        Roll on the GH3! – thankgod I would have been skint if this oly had the specks… but its LAME…

        1. Same word jumped to my mind. I was getting very excited to buy my first Oly body to go with Oly glass, but now…

          I think Olympus is in the lens business (superb) but not the body business (lame), and it’s too bad because it seems they have the engineering, but there’s disconnect between the market and the engineers (i.e., marketing #EpicFail). My guess, anyhow.

          One potential exciting thing you left off your list: macro photography. The macro kit lens + IBIS-5D + oversized 60mm macro lens could suggest an interesting macro story.

    3. “- I only shoot AVI-videos: poor selection of settings.”

      This is a bit like saying, “The new Porsche 911 is disappointing because I only drive on flat tires.”

      1. AVI (especially MJPEG) is a much better video format for editing than MOV. Did you know that? I bet you didn’t…

        1. Only if your PC is a wuss and you use somthing other than sony Vagas or Adobe Premiere… Premiere with CUDA card can do 6 layers of H264 simultaniously in realtime….

          Quicktime & AVI are just containers – they dont effect the video contained within!

          1. I know they’re just containers but every(?) editing software seems to like AVIs more than Quicktime. I use ATI cards only so no help from CUDA.

  17. 30p or 24p is fine. 30p will produce smoother images. My feeling is that the lenses and DOF play a bigger roll in achieving the “cinematic look” than 24p vs 30p. As long as the image is progressive and not interlaced.

    What I would like to see are some worthy slow-mo options…like 50% slow-mo.

    I’m pretty sure the GH2 wraps it’s 24p in a 60i package…I suspect that’s what is happening here.

    1. I hope youre right regarding 24p wrapped in 60i, which is plenty for me. If it’s segmented frame interlace then I guess it isn;t for me. I don’t really use 60p, unconcerned in that regard.

      I agree about the “film look”, but I still feel it’s important to have 24p, and many video-oriented folks won’t play ball without it, especially when there are so many other options.

      1. While 30P or 24P are OKish framerates, what the lack of faster rates signals is that the sensor readout will be around half the speed of the GH2 … that’s a recipe for major jello.

        Oh and … the GH2 does NOT wrap its 24P.

      1. Gosh, why the hostility! So he made a mistake — his point is still valid if you just change GH1 for GH2.

        I didn’t realize memorizing camera specs was so essential.

        1. Really, then you must be wearing colored glasses? All review tests I have seen have consistently shown the GX1 colors to be more accurate and natural than the vivid Oly ones but Panys colors as shown in GX1 are better than those of previous Pany models. I also do prefer the bright underexposed Oly colors. For reference look at the scores in Popular Photography for example.

          1. Panny colors are the worst. Blues are too purple. Yellows too greenish. Sony is pretty bad too. Cold. And the Canon reds suck. Oly has the best followed by Nikon. I work with bad images all day and carefully chose a camera brand, for my private use, with the best ooc colors to avoid too much color correction work at home too. The oly 510 has really crappy skin tones by the way. 620 is a bit better, and the E-PL1 is almost as good as the old E-500 was.

            Mmm, Kodak . . .

            😉

    1. Olympus and Pana always have different sizes for BOTH values:

      GF1: • 13.06 million total pixels
      • 12.11 million effective pixels

      E-P1: • 13.1 million total pixels
      • 12.3 million effective pixels

      (also dpreview)

      1. On dpreview is the also GF1 sensor round of to 13.1 million total pixels, so if we round of 16.6 will the be 17 million pixels not 16.9?
        Here is the Panasonic so have do tweaking.

    1. Please Olympus don’t, continue to do magnified view, I like to see the specific point that should be in focus, not a zone fous, I can do that on the outside of the legacy lens allready!!!!!!!

  18. Whats with calling the display LCD?

    Just to be pedantic, LCD stands for Liquid crystal Display. OLED is Organic Light Emitting Diode – a completely different tech to LCD.

    Should be – Display: OLED

    PS not criticising you, Admin, someone else wrote most of that I suspect.

    1. Doesn’t make a difference since the 14 and 16 bits are just market speak – there’s no useful information in the higher bits even in MFDBs.

  19. The sensor seems different than GX1 :

    GX1 : 16.0 effective Mpix (16.6 Mpix)
    E-M5 :16.1 effective Mpix (16.9 Mpix)

    Only a tweak or a new sensor?

    1. The MP are always different:

      GF1: • 13.06 million total pixels
      • 12.11 million effective pixels

      E-P1: • 13.1 million total pixels
      • 12.3 million effective pixels

      1. That’s just different rounding though on the total pixels (ie. 13.06 rounds to 13.1). Effective pixels takes the pixels lost for optical correction into account and Olympus just reserves less for that.

        However, 16.6 does not round to 16.9. It could just be typo though, so I’m not sure I’d get my hopes up.

  20. “IS for Movie Built in (Image sensor shift type image stabilization)”

    this sounds great, I asked the question about IS for video on previous thread and also Googled, to find that in previous Oly cams IBIS was unavailable in video mode, only a digital IS that looked bad in resulting video.

    IBIS for video means something new is possible: stabilized video with fast lenses (not available from Panny and previously not possible with Oly)

    previous rumour said due to faster sensor readout there was less rolling-shutter jello effect… that combined with above sounds like video quality could be better than G3/GX1 at least

  21. So how much is the VF magnification?
    I can understand that complicated line of theirs…
    Will the view appear big? 🙂

    1. The G3, GF3, and GX1 all had a faster sensor readout at 120Hz so maybe this is only Oly increase compared to existing Pens? This was already credited with getting less rolling-shutter jello effect in the previously mentioned cameras?

      The question I have is if this new better IBIS is used for video what about the major heat problems which previously prevented IBIS to be used for video and won’t this tend to degrade the sensor output?

  22. This camera sucks, olympus had to continue with the reflex, an innovate them.
    People that are sad because the E-M5 doesn’t have a focus peak? Do the reflex use focus peak? Mhmm no, can little kids understand what areas are in focus and what aren’t in focus using a reflex? Yes! So stopo complaining about it!
    Thefocus peak is only a plus which companies put in their camera for the lazy photographers! If you want to know whats in focus see your screen!

  23. No wireless remote control.
    These goddamn pennysavers!

    But then again, the donated a hump w/o function … how very generous !

  24. Nice camera and nice accessories. Performance will be good, not stellar.

    My only want would have been for a fully articulating screen.

    Hate having the LCD up against my face when viewfinding, and for tripod work really need to get the screen off to the side and rotated up. Good to see that Canon use it on the G1X so there is hope it will still be there on their future MILC.

    1. Seems like the max video lengths are (mainly) 29 minutes (+ 22 minutes in one mode). But isn’t there a European Union constraint on 29 minutes (to protect video cameras)? Anyway, very few films contain sequences longer than 29 minutes — aren’t most of them compiled from many shorter sequences?

      1. >But isn’t there a European Union constraint on 29 minutes (to protect video cameras)?

        Yep. Max 29 minutes is to prevent it being classed as a video camera. In hacked GH1 or GH2 this constraint is removed.

  25. I wish it had 24p framerate available for video. I have always wanted a small camera with 24p option. I might buy this camera for stills but for video I will stay with NEX-5N.

  26. Too bad they lack m4/3 weather sealed lenses
    12mm f2 and 75mm f1.8 should have been
    You can add the 45mm to that while youre at it
    Kind of a deal breaker right now but hope they work on that for the future

  27. What is: computerized focal-plane shutter? Is this global shutter?

    Only thing that bothers me so far are the movie frame rate options and lack of progressive output. Hopefully some of this gets modified in a future software version.

  28. I don’t know what all of them here are disappointed about. Isn’t most of the information here already known since the last few days?

    I think you need to compare this camera with the best m43 camera currently in the market and then make your decision. Comparing this to NEX is incomplete as you will have to factor in a lot more than what is written here.

    1. Comparing this to an E-P3, I see I have to choose between a built-in flash or a built-in viewfinder. I need some kind of flash ready at all times and I’d rather clip on a VF3 every now and then than walk around with that drink coaster flash perched on top of the hump all the time, snagging whenever I take it in and out of the bag (no neck straps for me, sorry).

      That odd little K-01 at $750, with its killer sensor, HD video and boatload of available lenses, is looking better all the time.

  29. Nothing for PAL video users as far as I can see. Unless there’s going to be a PAL version of the camera in the same way Panasonic and Sony offer.

  30. It handles MPO files. That is great for those of us that do 3D stereo photography. Absolutely love it. And for you ignorant whiners, no, MPO is not a gimmick.

  31. Looks a nice camera, although no good for me unless the mm3 does something miraculous. Bit disappointed by the sensor but will wait and see what the pics look like.
    Still holding out for a compact 43 ovf camera, if it don’t come soon oly, with regret I’m off 🙁

  32. Only one memory card? In a pro model? I’m getting a bad feeling about the EM-5 + MMF-3’s ability to autofocus SWD lenses.

    1. Russ:

      Nowadays, “Pro” camera means for enthusiasts with money to spend. Professionals have there own set of needs/desires. For what it’s worth, read this:

      http://www.dannyst.com/my-first-commercial-photography-shoot-with-an-ad-agency/

      About an “enthusiast” turning pro for day (BTW, I LOVE this guy, Danny Santos).

      Anyway, I’m certainly any Oly enthusiast and can afford this rig, but… going to wait for some independent reviews before passing judgement. In meantime, still loving my E-620, OM-2N, Oly 35RD, Sigma DP1, etc, etc 🙂

      Tom

      1. Tom, that’s an interesting article. It’s a different type of photography than what I usually do which is urban landscape.

        I too an Olympus enthusiast with my 33 year old OM-2n (which I rarely use anymore) and E-1. I don’t really need to upgrade my E-1, but it would me nice to have better high ISO performance, more pixels and IBIS. Two things that I won’t give up are weather sealing and the ability to use my 12-60 at it’s full ability. This might not matter if there was comparable μ43 glass. I’m hesitant to splurge for an E-5 because of the uncertainty of that format’s future.

        I only have one card slot now, but I’d like to be able to use two; a feature that I believe should be available at this price point. A single card slot is not a deal-breaker though, and the EM-5 has the weather sealing that I need. What will break the deal is if the EM-5 + MMF-3 is unable to somehow do PDAF.

        Russ…

    2. Troller trolls more, so the other so-called pro models like NEX-7 and X Pro 1 got more slots? No, oh my, nex-7 and x pro 1 are suddenly so toyish and noobish.

    3. Who said that it is a pro model? If it would be a pro model the price would be much higher 😉

      Seems to be a nice cam, can’t wait to see pics and tests 🙂

  33. Hm…

    Only 0-20EV. Not good
    No MicIn. very bad
    1/4000. Just ok
    12 Bit Raw. Not good enough anymore !

    So I’ll wait for the E7.

    B

    1. No, wait for the E9. It will be better. Or the E11. Better yet! In fact, I hear that the E21 will be really fabulous.

      Don’t worry, nothing worth photographing will happen before it comes out.

      1. Well, I’ve no m4/3 Stuff but E1, E3, E5 and as soon as its delivered a Leica M9P.

        And then I’m on traveling along the old silk road later this year….

        So, what was your comment?

        B

  34. As someone who has a bunch of great m-mount glass I’d like to use with a smaller body, I’m not sure this does it for me. I’ve been deciding between an NEX7 (or maybe a 5N), the Fuji, or maybe an m43 body (the gx1 or this one). But none of these really do it for me for various reason (poor MF, bad high ISO, few native lenses). I know what I really want is an M9 but can’t afford it. I’ve thought about trading some of my m-mount stuff for the fuji system once it arrives, but I don’t know. OTOH, maybe I’d be relatively happy with the Oly and the 20/1.7.

        1. While I’d agree with your comment Charlie, I have to agree to an extent with Jason, having borrowed a NEX5 for a week I found it a dreadful camera to handle, most uncomfortable in my hands. To that extent I’m not exactly a lover of the PENs having an E-P2, I prefer to use an old C5060WZ as a back up to my E system.

    1. If you want good high ISO performance the M9 with its 3 year old CCD sensor is not for you.

      If you go Fuji, it will not be compatible with your M lenses (17.7 FBD vs 27.8 on M-mount).

      That leaves you m43 (GX1, G3, GH2, E-P3, E-PL3, EM-5), NEX (5N, 7) or Ricoh GXR.

      If you want high ISO, the 5N is probably the pick. The GXR is rumored to receive a 16 MP module with the same sensor sometime soon, so might be worth waiting for.

      If you want an EVF, you have the GX1, E-P3, E-PL3, GXR (all with removable viewfinders) or G3, EM-5 and NEX-7 if you want a fixed viewfinder.

      If you want lots of manual controls, the NEX-7 (3 dials), GXR (2 dials, or rather, 1 dial + 1 joggle) and E-P3 (2 dials) are worth looking at. I’ve used a lot of cameras over the years (Leica, Canon, Nikon, Ricoh, m43) and Ricoh has one of the best user interfaces in my book. Having said that I have no problems using my GF1 with manual lenses.

      My advice is to try each camera before you decide. Or at least a couple different cameras. Using them in hand can lead to very different impressions than reading reviews or comparing specs online.

      1. “If you go Fuji, it will not be compatible with your M lenses (17.7 FBD vs 27.8 on M-mount).”

        Of course it is! What matters is that the flange distance for the lens is longer than the camera’s flange distance. The Fuji will work perfectly with these lenses; all that’s required is a 1 cm adapter.

        1. I believe Voldenuit is speaking about apparent focal lengths being different, due to Fuji using APS-C sensor. Like a return to the M8 (which was APS-C, I believe).

          Actually, I believe Fuji has already announced a Leica adapter… for later this year. That seems like a delayed release to me, since the Fuji seems (to me) to be targeting those with Leica glass who want an “budget” priced digital body. Like a poor man’s Leica M9 (or more literally, poor man’s M8).

          Just to mix things up a bit more, Leica is due to release an M10 late this year or 2013, so the wheel keeps turning!-)

    2. Brudy, the crop from aps-c is bad enough, a m4/3 leaves nothing of that great Leica glass i really would not recommend it. Choosing 5N or 7 depends on how well focus peaking works through a EVF, or over the LCD. I would prefer the 5N unless the LCD is really useless in the sun. When it’s a manual lens you don’t need all the extra dials and certainly not 24MP. The 16MP sensor is better.

      True a NEX has totally crap handling made for digi-freaks, not photographers. But when using legacy lenses all that matters is the sensor (size), to use as much of the glass’s surface area as possible. Everything else is manual anyway. And i wouldn’t get anything without focus peaking !

      As you can tell i’m really not a NEX guy (in fact i will most likely buy this OM-D) so i don’t say this lightly, but if you want to get the most out of legacy glass, don’t go m4/3 !!!

      1. MJr, that is the most shitty advice I’ ve seen in days.
        Somebody that has no experience with m43 and NEX saying the focus peaking is the best thing since sliced bread and advising others to buy anything except m43.
        What a load of crap.

        Since I do have experience MF’ing legacy with a NEX 7 and m43 (G2 and E-P1) I can say the G2 is much better for critical focus, requires just one button press to activate and it’s enough to press the shutter to take the picture.
        Focus peaking gives you a zone in which more items are in focus, roughly, magnified view takes a little longer to focus but is very, very precise.
        I must say that focus peaking is more precise than the zones displayed on the lenses, but still not precise enough.
        so please when advising someone make sure you have experience, else just refrain from any comment and stfu.

  35. 10….9….8….7….the disappointment begin…..while the common advice would suggest wait till they test it…you may find a bit of surprise….I was already warn not to have too much hope….nevertheless this is a very good camera….I wonder if they put orientation sensor inside….

    1. What disappointment .. no built-in coffee maker ?

      ps. Orientation sensor ? Seriously ? Out of everything you could have mentioned.

    2. Stop the negative campaign. This kind of post is everywhere these days, and I always believe the person who does this is hired by the competitive company or their advertising agency. Nasty.

  36. So the ISO range starts at 200 but it also says…
    “Auto : effective when shutter speed is slower than 4 sec. (at ISO 200 or higher) or 8 sec. (at lower than ISO200)”

    ?

    1. “Noise reduction:
      At High ISO setting Off, Low, Standard, High
      At Slow shutter speed Off, On, Auto
      On : effective when shutter speed is slower than 1 sec.
      Auto : effective when shutter speed is slower than 4 sec. (at ISO 200 or higher) or 8 sec. (at lower than ISO200)”

      Well, I believe the specs are mixed together a bit here, and listed in a quite confusing manner. They’re mixing NR and NF (NR = Noise Reduction by darkframe subtraction (eliminating hot pixels), NF = Noise Filtering (reducing ISO noise), so a better phrasing would be:

      “Noise Reduction settings (NR):
      Off, On, Auto
      On : effective when shutter speed is slower than 1 sec.
      Auto : effective when shutter speed is longer than 4 sec at ISO above 200,
      or longer than 8 sec at ISO 200.”

      “Noise Filter settings (NF):
      Off, Low, Standard, High”

  37. The question I have is if the E-D5 uses G3 sensor and IQ is similar and G3 has a bigger or higher magnification EVF (1.4X vers 1.15), included popup flash, and fully articulating LCD screen so can be reversed to protect when traveling, why would I not pick the smaller G3 at half the cost and buy a special lens to go with it for the difference?

    I know that there are those on this forum who claim the G3 is very plasticy but in fact according to DPR and others it has a lightweight aluminum body and all metal frame, but I have not been able to handly one in a store to judge for myself and agree I would prefer a body built like either the GX1 or E-D5. From the spec dimensions the G3 is 0.25″ less width and height but protrudes or depth 0.15″ more.

    1. It depends on what you need. If you need a bulb of more than 2 min, weather sealing, and IBIS than you might want the Olympus.

    2. Exactly. buy the cheap cam with the aging sensor…and buy some glass. ( I picked up an open-box G-3 body for $425…brand new that would leave you $775 for lenses). The G3 is plastic, mostly. if you look at a photo of a white G3 Body…you can see the central band of the camera in silver..that is what they are referring to as the metal frame. (cheezy call on Pany’s part)..the front and the back of the camera are molded plastic. Yes…it does have a plastic feel too it…but it is solid. I also have the GX1. The GXI has “slightly” better menues, more customizable func. buttons (which is nice)…but I like BOTH cameras. The G3 is a little more to hold and very “hand friendly”, where the GX1 is small and boxy. I like both cameras.
      I think the new OM is very cool…but I would not sink that kind of money in to this sensor. The system is GREAT, the lenses are GREAT..but I would buy a camera like the new OM when we get a little more DR. Then that might make sense. I am not getting rid of my 5D Mark II anytime soon..that is for sure.

      1. The metal band around the middle of the G3 is not what I am referring to. DPR and others specifically state that the front of the G3 camera is metal stamping while the rear is plastic attached to metal frame. All the Pany DSLR shape cameras from G1 thru G3 use a strong metal inner frame as do the GFs and GX1.

        1. OK…I have the camera in my hand. If I pop up the flash and/or open the battery compartment I can investigate the assembly quite well. I can ASSURE you…that the whole front of the camera is PLASTIC. It appears that there is metal underneath a lot of it…which is why I think it has a solid feel..but the back and front exterior of the G3 are plastic. The “outer” shells that you see with your eyes when the camera is sitting in front of you. That is what I stated above. My GF-1 was painted metal. This is DEFINITELY plastic. My GX1 is all metal and looks and feels very solid.

  38. I’m interested in the camera. When I wear out my e-p3 will I step up to the e-m5 or will I switch to a epm1 for size savings. Can’t wait to find out

    1. I’m thinking more and more like you,Bob.At first I was thrilled with this new cam coming out.Now,as the true specs and features have come out,my little,cheap G3 is looking better and better.I have never gotten it wet or dropped it, so I guess I can live without weather sealing and an all metal body.

      1. Everybody is getting emotional about the camera. Oly’s marketing ploy is working!!!…LOL.
        Buy a G3 body and some primes. Then unload it in a year or two when the sensor gets improved. I believe Panasonic will eventually improve the sensor significantly soon with all of the competition!!!!
        I got $300 for my GF-1 body last month…so my G3 body cost me almost nothing.
        David..our shots are going to be just as good looking as this OM…
        (BTW…I do not mind that the camera is plastic..it feels really good in your hand.)

  39. I’m interested in the camera. When I wear out my e-p3 will I step up to the e-m5 or will I switch to a epm1 for size savings. Can’t wait to find out.

  40. I just wish for an appropriate implementation of the bracketing.
    I want to be able to initiate taking all the photos in one click.

    I set 3 frames with 1EV.
    Set the option to burst bracketing mode to ‘On’.
    Set 2 Sec delay, click on the exposure and get 3 as fast as possible frames.

    How hard is that?

  41. Would have liked to upgrade my GH1. Now it seems that E-M5 would be a downgrade from the sensor quality point of view. Starting to wait for GH3 🙁

  42. I am not the least bit disappointed as I already expected the video specs after I know what kind of sensor it is using. I kept my mouth shut (or froze my fingers) just to not annoy people.

    20 Mbps vs 100 Mbps GH2.
    Built in Jell-o effect, with permanency feature, so you cannot accidentally turn it off. LOL.

    Admin, any rumor on GH3?

  43. Unfortunately now that the complete specs have been leaked as well as the pictures this has taken a lot of the anticipation away from the actual official release. With the official releases we are likely to get another dose of similar hyped claims and the previews likely not able to shed any further like on the IQ until later as these are pre-production cameras and they are not allowed to release much IQ pictures and data at this time. However I would not be surprised to see DPR release their review of this E-D5 before that of the GX1 just to claim it is the best?

    1. LOL! I think this site is VERY Olympus biased….but I have never gotten that impression over at DPReview. Interesting.

  44. Does anybody know if it has a 3:2 ratio option? I know it’s not a multi-ratio sensor like the GH2, but I’d hope to have a 3:2 crop format like most of the Pany’s.

    Since the PENs don’t have this, I’m afraid this camera won’t have it either. That’s a bummer for some of us 35mm converts who still like the dSLR 3:2 ratio.

    1. Having spent my share of time in darkrooms, I hate the 1.5:1 aspect ratio. It’s too wide for most photography. The amount of photographic paper that I trimmed through the years, because 8×10 paper is a 1.33:1 aspect ratio, must be staggering. Medium format? That’s usually 1.33:1 as well. large format? 1.2:1. 35mm is just too wide for photography.

      Video? Traditional NTSC/PAL video is close to the 1.33:1 aspect ratio. HDTV is 1.78:1. Cinema is usually wider than with a wide range of aspect ratios that start at usually start at 1.85:1.

      Too wide for stills. Not wide enough for video or cinema. This is the 35mm format that was created by cutting 70mm in half. It was born a compromise, and I for one simply don’t see any inherent aspect of 35mm as worthy of representing a standard for the larger world of photography.

      1. While I respect the fact that you don’t like 3:2 and I understand your reasons, I happen to love the ratio and I have made my career on it and so have many other people. I don’t have any paper size hangups; I print 12×18, 20×30, and 24×36.

        Nikon and Canon live by 3:2. Pany offers 3:2. Most P&S’s offer a 3:2 option. Why not Oly? I’m fine with others preferring 4:3, but for a company struggling on the edge of destruction, you think they’s want to open up their doors a bit more.

        1. I doubt that they’re losing many sales, especially when 1.33:1 matches up better with what people print on. And if they don’t print, it’s simply a matter of personal preference that most people would never even consider.

          1. 4:3 good for portrait, 3:2 good for landscape. But it all just depends on a proper composition if it will look good in the end.

          2. Russ — We’re in different worlds and that’s okay. If you’re happy with 4:3, I’m happy with 3:2. My paper size of choice is Super B 13×19.

            Now according to GS below, the PENS *do* offer 3:2 ratio. Do you have a PEN? If so, would you be kind enough to check for me if you have the ability to select a 3:2 ratio? I’m not trying to convince you that it’s better, but if it exists as an option, that makes me happy.

          1. @GS… Do they? If so, then thanks. I never seem to see this listed on the spec sheets, but if that’s true that 3:2 is offered, then that makes me happy.

          2. Yes, but it doesn’t have a multi-aspect sensor like the GH-2, so you’re just cropping the image in camera. Little sense in doing that unless you don’t have access to software to post process pictures.

  45. Come on, people!
    You forget… the sensor is tweaked… TWEAKED!!! It means it’s 1000x better than anything (6 years ago).

  46. My guess is that the price of this camera will drop quite a bit six months after release because of the average specs and other new or announced products. There will be a initial high demand for “must have” impulse buyers and then a sharp decline. The offering is not advanced or compelling enough to hold the price point and like other 43 cameras it should drop quite a bit. The size and new features of this just don’t get me excited enough, other than the built in view finder. This will appeal to many DSLR consumers that want a smaller package. Like the GX1 which should have come before the other GF cameras, some parts of this feel a bit too late. An updated version could certainly be a great camera even with the stupid hump.

    1. Ditto. And frankly, it would be nice if Oly saved the best for last. It feels like we already got “the best” news/hype already, so I’m assuming the worst at this point.

  47. So… what is the status of the Panasonic 12-35/35-100 f2.8 lenses? I think these three might make up a very nice compact photo journal system…

    1. If a signal deinterlace 60i (60fps interlaced, ie 1 frame is composed of half of the previous half of the next) leaves a clean signal 30p (actual full frames)

    2. No it isn’t because it has half the vertical resolution.
      Only situation when it’s equal is if there’s nothing moving in picture and other fields can add missing lines to picture.

      In any case would be hard time to get rid of this hundred year old analog era compression shit called interlacing and offer true progressive image.

      1. On the other hand, since it’s the Panny sensor, it may be their fake 60i which is really 30p spread over two frames.

      2. Was a simplification for Sam, however I would never go in the digital age to deal with interlacing!!!
        I do not understand why you insist on re-propose…

    1. Wow that is a very pleasant surprise, thanks Olympus! After the high priced EP3 and some of the recent lenses I began to worry it would be priced too high and this is a smart move for Oly which should attract many more to this camera. So only $300 more than the GX1 but you get an inbody EVF and new IBIS, and reportedly better AF for moving objects, fair enough. I wish Oly every success with this E-D5 and hope it helps to bring them back.

      Yes and I think a lot of people who previously would have settled for one of the many larger plastic DSLR look alikes and their lenses but poorer small dim OVFs will be attracted to its metal body much like the SLR OMs. Now for the many like me that have both a DSLR and a small m4/3 one can do with only one system of lenses rather than two and yes that also applies to the GH2 or G3.

  48. Can anyone explain what the EVF specs mean? Doesn’t appear to be an OLED EVF like the Nex-7. I can’t decipher the size.

  49. If “1920(H)x1080(V), 59.94i” implies there is no option to record 1920×1080 progressively (even if only at 24p), then the former rumor that “OM-D beats GH2 videos” is already falsified. GH2 can do 1920x1080p24, and that looks a hell lot better than any of the interlaced crap other cameras provide.

  50. I’m am quit disappointed with the specs for video. This is definately not on par with the GH2. For me video is just as important as still photography and on that note i can’t justify buying this camera. A shame really because this camera has some really nice features. I guess Oly has not really love for video like Panasonic has. Too bad 🙁

  51. Engineering must be hard.

    Firstly: build in flash didn’t fit in the body. Secondly: I’m no fps fanboy, but 3,5fps with IS sounds really low. My 2007 E-3 does 5fps. Wonder what obstacle there is with mirrorless technology? However, 9fps bracketing sounds fun.

    Specs say it’s not to be used in sub-zero weather. Same with the E-3. I have used it in -26°C 🙂

    It was really nice to finally see a digital OM. Dream that I waited for many years. Currently, I think I’m going to turn to Nikon D700, as soon as I can afford it. Too bad my 4/3 lenses are worth next to nothing today. Have been trying to sell 12-60mm – the best zoom there has ever been – for months. :/

    1. The specs do not only say it’s not to be used in sub-zero weather, they also require a minimum humidity that you won’t find in most indoor environments in winter. I wonder whether this is just some legal trick to evade warranty claims of all kinds.

      But the real deal-breaker for me is the “retro” video specs – so I’ll have to wait for the GH3, it seems…

    2. Caveat: I am in Japan. But the prices on the 4/3 lenses here are basically the same as when I bought them 3 years ago. The 12-60 goes used at Map Camera (a reputable camera store) for ~65,000yen/~$750 US.

  52. It looks like a great camera. It’s just that those of us with GH2’s who were looking forward to a large leap forward, might not have a reason to upgrade. Still let’s see what the official word is!

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