The photo on top has been found on Photogeek.fr. On the picture you can see the [shoplink 23683 ebay]17mm pancake lens[/shoplink] but such a photo is almost deifnitely fake 🙂 A wonder what that subtitle means: “The new seven-point twin….”
I am almost sure the new specs from Digicaminfo are correct:
1. It looks like old OM but not any OM reforms.
2.Two dial button left and right beside central penta part,and another dial button side at release button.there have other one small button in left of release button.
3.Grip curve looks like [shoplink 23568]Olympus E-P3[/shoplink],but this one continues to the bottom of camera,paste with leather.Leather has also paste at both side of lens mount.
4.two kinds of leather style. black ones is more artificial, and silver ones is more natural.
5.packed with an GN10 flash.
6.Five-axis image stabilizer in body.
7.FAST AF and 3D tracking
8.Minimum sensitivity is ISO200 and maximum sensitivity is ISO25600 with tweak.
9.610.000dots organic EL,vari-angle monitor
10.use MPO as file save type.
It’s a translation from the original japanese text made by one of our readers (Thanks!). What do you think about the specs and picture?
223 Responses
Fake. Why is there a film rewind knob on a digital camera 😀 There’s even the old inspector’s sticker of the OM bodies.
If they can bring the film rewind knob back, it will be even better! Can be used as a review next button at least.
– will need to be available in white or brown too
– thinking the art filters will have an intensity slider and other options
– in built ND grad filter would be awesome
– blue tooth and/or wireless hopefully
3d tracking sounds useful, hopefully works in video mode too:D
Yes, in built ND grad filter is better, so “fake HDR”.
First of all, I’m aware that this picture is fake. But check out Epsons digital rangefinder camera, it has a film rewind knob
Yeah, its fake. But the Epson RD-1 digital rangefinder has also a rewind knob. I would welcome this!
If it only did have a made in Japan quality inspection sticker.
An image has been drown with photoshop.
We can see an OM-2, with the quality control sticker and the film advance lever mixed with m4/3 cheap lens.
I am getting double posts
I love speculation, bring on more fake pictures! The one for the Fuji x1pro was pretty spot on. We should have a contest on mock OM Ds.
“9.61000dots organic EL,vari-angle monitor”
Woo Hoo! That’s what I wanted to see – I was afraid Olympus might blow it by giving it a fixed LCD, but it looks like they’ve finally got one model that ticks all the boxes. Yay!
Indeed 😀
61000 dots monitor…. that’s not ….much? … infact… if I’m not mistaken; it’s crap. And most likely a typo, or just myself misunderstanding something.
That’s not crap, that’s the same OLED screen that’s in the E-P3. Very high end, even though it’s not as many pixels as the latest LCD type screens. OLED has better visibility outside, and 610k dots is plenty resolution.
610K is fine but it is now typed as 61K.
I missed the typo… But it will definitely by 610k dots, not 61k.
9.610.000 dots would be even better 🙂
I wonder why camera maker always talks in dots or pixels ? On my phone, it’s a 800×480 screen, simple to understand. 61000dots is very low, 320×240 is 76,800 so called dots 800×480 is 384,000 dots or 1,152,000 pixels.
Same reason ISPs are using Mbits and not MBytes. Because it is a much bigger number and people don’t know the difference.
It’s obviously a fake and it was the first thing that administrator said. Why are some ppl still arguing?
I just went shooting with a friend who has an Ep3 and the display blows that on my Ep2. In fact, it may look better than the actual pictures!
It’s obviously a fake and it was the first thing that administrator said. Why are some ppl still arguing?
I just went shooting with a friend who has an Ep3 and the display blows away
Because on LCDs you don’t have pixels. In most modern LCDs you have an array of individually colored dots, aligned in “stripes”. So each row goes RGBRGBRGBRGB… First a red dot, then a green dot, then a blue dot.
But they’re not dots, they’re actually elongated rectangles. So what you end up with is that three row dots are about the same width as the height of the row.
Yep, it’s all confusing. But using dots to define what is actually going on is a reasonable choice. All else equal, more dots is better. Of course, all else isn’t always equal, as there are different array types and other intersecting issues, but it is a good generalizer: more dots is usually better.
Well my monitor has that too, and my tv and (most?) other lcd displays right? I know because i have a macro lens ;). So the point was that it’s funny they go for dots here, but not with other LCDs. But yes you’re right.
ps. The Fuji X-Pro1 has RGBW (white), i believe, so i wonder if they counted the white ones as well, which would make the actual ‘pixel’ total even less.
Looks like they did, that’s why the number is so high and odd, but didn’t at all advertise it as extremely high:
3.0-inch RGBW (White) LCD monitor, approx. 1,230,000 dots, (Approx. 100% coverage)
I thought that 3 dots = 1 pixel
So 800×480 = 384.000 px = 1.152.000 dots
But that’s maybe is for LCDs and not for OLEDs, since I’ve heard that the 610.000 dots in this OLED is equivalent to more dots in LCD (around 1 mill.?).
Anyway, on a 3″ screen we are around the limit already. Putting more dots (or pixels) wouldn’t make a difference to the human eye.
@KI
less of the bad language please as women use this website too….
Yes! Vari-angle lcd may save this one… If the DR is significantly better – then it MAY be a buy.
I just HOPE vari-angle means ‘fully articulated’. The term ‘vari-angle’ is CRAP. Canon uses it… yes… and some others might as well. But by the sound of it and by what it can TECHNICALLY mean, it doesn’t have to be fully articulated like in the E-3/5 or GH1/2, but could be like in the Nex7 or E-PL3. And that… would be worse than a fixed screen, in my opinion.
So PLEASE let it mean fully-articulated!
I’m totally with you there!
+1.
This is nonsense. I love the tilt screen on my E-PL3 and would never trade it for one of those ridiculous swiveling screens that have to swing out to the side when you want to use it at an angle. Sheesh!
That’s very true – I have a G3 and it drives me mad having to swivel it to the side to use it from below or above. The only good thing for me about having a fully articulated screen is being able to reverse and close it completely – which incidentally is where mine stays about 95% of the time.
The fully-articulating and swivel LCD on my E-30 stays closed with the screen protected against the camera back 95% of the time. I generally compose shots through the viewfinder. However, I use the swivel screen for odd angle shots where I cannot safely put my head behing the camera view finder. A tilt-only LCD is not enough to reach these odd angle shots such as reaching over a fence on a skyscraper or at Niagara Falls. I am not crazy enough to climb out over a fence for these camera shots, but I will hold the camera in a risky position (while tightly attached to my arm with a wrist strap) to compose shots using the swivel LCD.
Oops! behind, not behing
> have a G3 and it drives me mad having to swivel it to the side to use it from below or above
Yeah, Sony A77 style LCD might be overall quite much faster to use.
To me a full swivel LCD is much more versatile. So I hope it’s not as restricted as in the EPL-3.
“use MPO as file save type”…what is this???…never heard MPO…
Multi Picture Object
for 3D pictures, I think it was developed by Fuji
Mpo = more 3d crap
It’s a format to save pictures and 90%of the people who buy this.camera willnever use it.
But those of us that shoot digital 3D use it all the time.
ertu – your comment is unacceptable. Try to use a better vocabulary.
This is mostly firmware additions, but certain hardware additions to a camera that are there may not be used by everyone all the time, but it makes a worthwhile package to have it included. This is one of those things included that some may want to experiment with while others may not use or try it at all. It just just adds to the marketability for this camera.
@ertu
less of the bad language please as women use this website too….
“6.Five-axis image stabilizer in body.”
Five? Huh?
Most likely back & forth movements like the OIS in the new Canon 100mm L IS macro.
No – Back and forth is no good on the sensor – it will just focus and defocus…. the macro lens must have elements that move – back forth is of limmited use… i.e. only macro – which is not a sanp and go situation so I can live without!
It might be useful to have the camera fine tune manual focus once you get it close. If this is a nostalgia camera it might see more use with old legacy lenses than other m43 cameras.
I agree with you about IS on macro. I bought a macro lens for my SLR with no IS at all. But a lot of people find it useful. The kit lens for this camera is labeled macro so being able to match the feature of the Canon macro could be a selling point.
I cannot figure out how pitch and yaw would be useful though. It’s not like this is going to have the movements of a view camera. Maybe the sensor is still limited to 2 degrees of freedom and they have accelerometers for 5 axis.
pitch and yaw would be usefull to stabalize – it can be a bigger change of image than pure vertical/horizantal movement.
But yes the sensor will only move in 3 dimentions (rotation the third), but that will be controled by sensors in all directions/rotations… so it will be the vector of pitch and vertical movement and the vector of yaw and horizantal movement combined.
five axis….. hm….
1. up-down
2. sideways
3. horisontal tilt
4. vertical tilt
5. rotating (to some degree…)
Tilt and rotation are the same thing 😀
So, we have:
1) Up-down
2) Left-right
3) Rotation
4) Back-forth
5) Bending the space-time continuum? 😉
no rottion and tilt are diffrent!
Rotation around the lens center,
KI has it spot on! – This might well be the best IS ever if it works well! 5 AXIS is the best implementable.
You can never have a forward back axis as unless it moves the lens as well it will just defocus not stabalize…. forward backwards is near usless… only in CU macro would it be any use and even then limmited.
How are rotation and tilt different?
different axes of rotation
Which could be at the right hand, LH or the lens centre.
ok well – tilt is pointing up and down – and pointing left and right – not moving, but tilting up or down, left or right.
Moving will be the current implimentation and is not as big an effect as tilting…
Rotation will be rotation around the lens/image center, so if your horizon was to roll it will compensate for that!
I thought rotation was tilt, and what you’re describing was shift, and used for perspective correction…? I wouldn’t exactly expect that in stabilization, but we’ll see.
No man you don’t get it, tilting and Rotating do not shift anything. The only time it’s shifting is by 1. and 2. the OLD left-right/up-down IS.
1. SHIFT horizontally (left-right)
2. SHIFT vertically (up-down)
3. TILT by horizontal axis
4. TILT by vertical axis
5. ROTATE center point
Maybe I don’t get it 🙁
http://i.imgur.com/AyrJ9.png
Pentax have rotation on center point in soon five year, so the new her is tilt up down tilt to both side.
> Maybe I don’t get it 🙁
“Rotate around central point” is the IS for the press of the shutter button.
Most people can’t press the button without causing a slight movement of the right size of camera downwards.
The compensation for the shutter button press involves: slight rotation of the camera + vertical/horizontal shifts. (Recall the geometry lessons.)
Horizontal/vertical tilts are for the case of long/heavy lens tilting whole camera down under the weigh of the lens (or just unsteady hands). Since one can shoot in both landscape and portrait orientation, you the tilts on both axises.
“Wouldn’t this change the perspective?”
Well isn’t that the point ? ANY movement changes the composition, or even focus point, and IS is there to counter-act that.
Just think in terms of movements on the x,y and z axes
1. shift along x axis
2. shift along y
3. tilt around y
4. tilt around x
5. tilt around z
Obviously, as a few have stated, shifting along the z axis (i.e. shift sensor towards/away lens mount) doesn’t make much sense since it’ll probably just produce front/back focus issues.
Ok well to put it another way :-
3 axis of rotation stabalized &
2 axis of translation/movement stabalized.
5 degres of freedom stabalized! – SWEET, possibly the best avalible , we will have to see!
They mean 5 stops
axis clearly means axis, not stops.
Think roll, pitch and yaw on an airplane. The ailerons control roll, rudder controls yaw and elevator controls pitch.
We’re missing the point–In addition to the 2 old sensor-moving-actuators (Horizontal “X” axis & Vertical “Y” axis) Olympus has added 3 new ones behind the sensor which move it in and out along optical viewing “Z” axis (The “Z” actuators are arranged in a triangle on the back of the sensor carrier, like the legs of a 3 legged stool).
This revolutionizes contrast autofocus speed because the “Z” actuators can be “Collectively” driven in and out at high frequency to establish which direction the lens focus motor must go to sharpen the image. (No more pulsing the lens in and out to at the start of focusing.)
Also, the “Z” actuators can be “Differentially” driven (one in, two out, etc.) to correct out of plane tilting of the sensor for best focus from top to bottom, and side to side.
THIS IS A GIANT LEAP IN ACTIVE FOCUSING TECHNOLOGY!!
That would be neat, though somehow I suspect that the actuators will just be X shift, Y shift, and rotate as normal. The extra 2 axes would be based on using the inferred focus distance and focal length to compensate for translation movement of the whole body. That would mainly be relevant for macro.
In-camera tilt-shift? 😀
Tilt at the sensor wouldn’t have any impact on image stabilization. Tilt works with in-lens stabilization because it’s part of the optical formula and you are near the optical center of the design. Tilting at the sensor is too late (unless, of course, Olympus is redesigning all its lenses ;~).
Or its under manual control, and we get some view camera controls ;-).
no – you dont tilt the sensor – you shift the sensor to negate the tilt….
pOINTLING TH CAMERA DOWN 0.1 DRG WILL BE mostly COMPENSATED BY SHIFTING THE SENSOR UP A NATS COCK….
soz caps lock,,,,
You dont tilt the sensor …
You shift the sensor to negate the tilt..
Point the camera down 0.1 deg will be MOSTLY negated by shifting the sensor up a nats cock… – same for left right.
These degrees of movement are a bigger problems than parralell movements as most people dont wobble in a parralel mannor – they tend to give rotation to the movement, the amount of shift required to provide compensation will be grater the grater the FL used.
Like I said I cant wait to see how good this is if it truly is a 5 axis stabalizer!
Would be definitely nice thing because there are uses for such:
http://www.dpreview.com/news/2011/7/8/pentaxastroreport
Holy Shit Batman… how cool is that – Would be grate if Oly added this !!!
I bet that GPS adapter costs a few 100 €. For that kind of money you can just buy a basic MEADE telescope with tracking computer, which would allow for much longer exposures. Finding objects and tracking them is a breeze like that. You can even get simple adapters to mount your camera on the eyepiece and get great shots of planets, nebulae etc.
LIDL sometimes has offers for around €249 for a basic reflector scope including the tracking functions.
Be nice to have for say upto 300sec exposures – so its with you all the time – weather you bring your tracking tripod or not!
Its a very cool feature! 300sec gets a lot of the night sky… beyond that you will be needing more I agree – but 300sec is enough to do a lot more than a fixed tripod!
Really long exposure astrophotography needs always both very precise pointing of mount’s polar axis (neither easy or fast) and good tracking mechanics which isn’t something you’ll find in el Cheapo telescope.
Also cheap telescopes often have flimsy tripod/mount so wouldn’t exactly count them to do their job well with extra weight added. Sturdiness requirement of mount/tripod goes double especially if any kind tracking is used.
Again while limited in time by sensor movement amount that Pentax system works with camera on normal tripod.
this why we needs apps!
YESSSSS APPS!!!!!
+999999999
Looking over the source link with Google translate, and also reading a couple of comments, I think that “axis” really means “stops,” so we’re the claim is 5 stops, not 5 axes. Too bad, no view camera in a box.
“Minimum sensitivity is ISO200”
Smells like Panasonic sensor…
I wonder what is the maximum shutter speed, if it’s still 1/4000, duh…
Otherwise, I hope there is in-body ND filter.
+1. ISO 200? Booh!!!
Seriously, ISO 200 is very disappointing. There better be a built in ND filter like the new canon has.
First thing anyone always seems to look for in a camera review is high iso performance. They know this, they put all their efforts into making it perform best at high iso’s so we can all say, look how good this shot looks at 6400iso yay. Bottom line, it’s our own fault that they are now neglecting the low iso’s by trying to push it up further and further. For us !
@pixnat, mike: Let’s see, Sony, Nikon, and a few others have a lot of sensors that start at ISO 200. Thing is, the photo diode that controls light conversion is pretty much a mature thing at this point, and it’s going to have a native response that’s in the 150-300 range most of the time.
We’re now starting to see some companies come up with an adaptive gain concept (I believe the D4 does this to get ISO 100, and it seems to do something different above ISO 3200, too), but it’s a little leading edge. Previous ISO 100s (e.g. Canon) were often actually higher ISO values exposed slightly differently with data restoration.
It’s a slippery slope. I could design a camera that goes to ISO 25 by having it underexpose by three stops. But this is underexposure, not actual ISO. ISO starts to lose its meaning if you start building in under/over exposure into some of its values.
Fake ISO is as crap as interpolating fake resolution – same thing in essence!
But having say 2 sets of anoluge amps, switchable from low gain amp to high gain amp would be the way to go… just like the old vinal and pre amp situation.
A top quality low gain amp – but can not give much boost and then a more aggressive gain (with less finess) as a second processing route. ??? any merit in this idea? or is 200 ISo the min output without amplifacation from the sensor?
+1
At least Oly will have a good excuse to not build fast primes. 🙁
> Smells like Panasonic sensor…
Of course. It was the most probable choice.
Hopefully some diversification in this department will come in the future..
that’s sad, especially, because a real ISO100 would have been the easiest way to truly enhance the dynamic range. in fact, even ISO50 would be welcome (and I would gladly sacrifize the surely useless ISO12800+ settings for that) for even more DR plus the ability to use the lovely f1.8 primes wide open in daylight…
Ay Men to that- forget the unusable 25k and 12k and add a very usable 100 and 50 ISO….
So you get an awsome IQ at base and still a usable top end of 6.4k which is very respectable (if usable)…
25k of noise is not respectable, even tho its the biggest number on the block! 25k of nice IQ would be astonishing and waaay ahead of anyone else!
I used to shoot my E-410 almost exclusively on ISO 200 because that was the sensor’s true “base” ISO – ISO 100 had reduced DR!
I agree that ISO 100 would be a practical inclusion but don’t mistake its effect on performance… they don’t leave it off for the fun of it.
Still hoping that someone drops out of the high ISO competition and designs an ISO-less sensor 50 through 1600 i.e. colour, contrast, dynamic range and noise all unaffected/equal.
Whilst they’re at it, how about in camera NR that handles chroma only, luminance has never bothered me?
Nikon uses a boost to include ISO100, and even ISO50 on some of their cameras even though native ISO is 200. I’m not sure why Olympus fails to see the importance of those settings. Anyone practicing photography for more than a year or two should know that ISO100 (and even ISO50) would be a handy tool to have for long exposures, larger aperture lenses, and for using strobes in daylight.
Olympus should build an ND filter into the body somehow if they don’t want to do a boost to ISO100, but I don’t have much hope of that.
No the base isn’t 200. And you don’t have less dr. You have less highlights. It you also get better shadows. The total dr is ballpark same.
Go away. You trolled the DPR Oly forums for years and now you’re here too?
Seriously just skip what I write. As for “trolling” don’t be stupid. I have been in the Olympus forum for a while (probably longer than you) and nobody called me a troll while I said what people wanted to hear. As for here, I have been in this forum since day one. You know, when people at DPR used to joke of this website as “four thirds humor” and other things to discredit it. Remember?
ISO has little to do with extended dynamic range. Dynamic range is simply what’s left between two obstacles: electron well saturation at the ceiling, and noise at the floor. Many of the gains lately have been changing noise at the floor, particularly read noise. Eventually, we’ll get the ability to capture saturation spill which will let us break through the ceiling. But neither of those things is “ISO.”
Thom the way ISP is set at the end user level on these cameras- on most recent ones influences where the tonal range of dr is applied. For example the Olympus (and I suspect nikons) at ISo 200 and up underexposed by one stop and develop back up for proper exposure. Result: better highlight recovery at the expense of shadows.
On the nikons this is less of an issue (particularly d7000) bit on m4/3 and 4/3 the shadows show a lot of noise
ISo 100 and ISo 200 when shot in raw manually and examined under dcraw or any converter that didn’t support the camera at the time on the pens that have ISo 100, on the e-30 models to e-5 are identical.
Canon, Pentax and Sony allow you to shift the curve at will to prioritize highlight range or shadow range. Don’t know about Nikon , have not seen it but wouldn’t be surprised some models do.
I am going to amend what I said that I can only speak for the current pens and 4/3 models since e-30. ISo 200=ISo 100 underexposed one stop and brought back up one stop
However the other cameras I mentioned that allow you to shift the priority to highlights sure seem to behave the same way. Have not verified with dcraw my k-5 raws
Agreed. 200ISO = same old, same old
Thom can you elaborate a bit more on your comment? I always correlated iOS to DR performance, as the best performing cameras have DR costantly climbing at their lower ISO (if you trust DXO mark benchmarks).
While i completely understand that DR is limited by noise floor and electron well saturation I’m a bit confused as why a lower ISO then would have little to do with DR.
Agreed, minimum ISO200 is a huge disappointment. I have no desire to carry ND filters around with me in order to use my f/1.4 glass in daylight.
ISO200 would be no problem if they also include 1/8000 shutter speed, I’d take that tradeoff any day.
Rob
@Admin: still no word on AF for 4/3 lenses???
Still very interested…
Yes, it will autofocus with FT lenses, it’s pretty sure!
(But don’t try to AF with SWD lenses too often, unless you want to destroy the AF mechanism… 🙁 )
Why is that so?
Because an SWD mechanism is designed with phase-detect AF in mind. It does not like zillions of small movements (which CD-AF mechanisms do).
Oh, OK, thanks.
I know it will AF 4/3 lenses, at least with the existing MMF-1 adapter. But the point is that most of those excellent lenses only focus very slowly, because they were built for PDAF, not CDAF. The above camera seems like a great companion for my excellent 14-54mm mkI lens, especially if it incorporates some kind of PDAF solution (on-chip like Nikon, or with a PDAF adapter like Sony). If Olympus cracks that puzzle, it suddenly opens up a superb range of high grade lenses and leap frogs all the other mirrorless systems in terms of versatility.
I sometimes use the 14-54mm on my E-PL1, but that AF is really too slow for anything that moves even the slightest, and it doesn’t sound too good for the AF motor either. Give us a better solution, please Olympus!
> Give us a better solution, please Olympus!
Maybe some time in the future. We know that Olympus already works on the E-5 replacement, which is a sign that they haven’t yet found the right AF solution for the “one beautiful system”.
But it’s so simple: make another adapter with PDAF built into it, like the Sony one.
It may sound simple as you say it, but it’s probably not – there can be several obstacles, apart from the fact that the Sony solution is clumsy (it looks like another camera attached to the “proper” camera), and it wastes the available light – something that the FT system in particular should not afford.
I bet its not even that – Its probably sonys solution is patented and so oly cannot go down that route! – I bet its not a technical problems so much as a legal one…. what a lovely age we live in!
N.B. No to SOPA and PIPA!! nice one WIki & Google!
Maybe, but the translucent mirror + separate AF sensor in an adapter is more of a work around solution with some downsides. I would much rather have Oly pursue PD on sensor, like the Nikon 1. Unfortunately, this will not happen unless Oly has another sensor supplier.
iso 200 minimum sensitivity sucks. How can they achieve “high dynamic range” with iso 200 base level ??
Standard for pretty much everyone these days. Which sucks.
People seem to want higher sensitivities for some reason. I’d prefer GREAT 50-400iso, myself. I used to take good pictures day and night with that in the film days.
totally agree with you…maybe people want high sensitivity because they take picture with camera at arm’s length looking on LCD and shaking a lot ?
Even at arms levels, you can take sharp picture. Yesterday, with my EX1, i take night city picture at 66mm (FF equiv), 1/10s and iso 80 and the picture is good. IS helps a lot, breathing slowly and steadily too 🙂
Yep, that starts to sound badly like yet another Panasonic crap sensor.
Canon, Nikon, Pentax and Sony all have sensors with more reasonable base ISO.
I think the Panasonic G3 sensor receives praise in every review of that camera or the of the GX1? Of course, there’s always room for improvement, but this sensor will give 1EV stop better performance than the current 12MP sensor. Especially if Olympus is able to achieve good processing. They usually got better results from the 12MP sensor than Panasonic. Even in RAW there was less noise in Olympus cameras than in Panasonic cameras.
LOL, they need the min ISO200 for their f6.3 50mm kit zoom lens.
that’s a pretty good explanation ! 😀
You are right. 🙁
Even though the new OM won’t, I’d love to go to ISO 25 so that you can shoot wide open on sunny days! Then I won’t have to buy a ND filter for each lens 😀
Or you could buy one for your biggest lens and use really cheap step-down filter ring adapters.
I use to in film.
Fake picture, where’s “grip curve like Olympus E-P3 that continues to the bottom of camera” ?
Isn’t that what the title already says: ‘(FT1) Fake First Picture :)’
I think you and digicam-info are going around in circles here. Half of his posts cite yours.
I think we need to wait until something more concrete shakes out.
Is this a fully articulated screen or is it like an epl3? I wonder how thick the camera body is going to be if it’s fully articulated. What about touch screen like the ep3? I can’t imagine they would remove a feature like that. A fully articulated screen in a sweet looking retro body that is also weather sealed would be pretty sweet.
Any lens announcements coming? Or is Olympus going to let Panasonic make the weather sealed lenses for micro four thirds?
I’m a bit past my initial dissapointment. An evf with 1.4million dots optimized for high performance, awesome looking retro body, articulated touch screen, weather sealing, and slightly better sensor will make this a pretty damn good camera.
If they include a physical shutter speed dial and exposure compensation dial, I will be super happy. Instant Pre order for me.
“Any lens announcements coming? Or is Olympus going to let Panasonic make the weather sealed lenses for micro four thirds?”
The new 12-50mm kit lens is weather sealed. Did you miss that news?
It will be disappointing if they don’t announce one or two other weatherproof lenses that are in the pipeline. But given their financial difficulties I’m not expecting much as far as new weatherproof lenses.
Nothing to do with the corporation’s financial distress. They made sales and development budgets long before the financial scandal broke. And as the ILC manager confirmed a few days ago, those budgets have not been impacted. It’s also proven by the fact that new products continue to be launched as planned.
Maybe next year’s budget will be different, but I suspect they look at it on a project basis. If it’s a good project, it will get funded. Of course, budget cuts in the camera business can also be achieved in the sales and marketing organisation. Not necessarily in new product development (which would be suicidal).
A prime 25 f2 weather-sealed, would be nice to offer as a second kit lens for it.
Why f2? If Olympus did that I’d definitely go with the non-weather sealed Panasonic 25mm f1.4. Maybe if they did a 50mm f2- though I think even then they should go with f1.4.
Vari-angle monitor might just mean it’s readable from different angles. I would not expect an articulated screen on this camera.
The text on Digicaminfo says “Movable rear monitor”, not “Vari-angle monitor”. At least now, and google translator. Either google translator is changed, or Digicaminfo has changed the info, or admin has corrected the Digicaminfo.
43rumors’ translation was done by a reader, I trust human translator more than Google translator, for now.
But if you read the *comments* from Japanese (?) readers on Digicaminfo, it is pretty clear that they discuss a movable monitor, I think.
A nice touch would be leatherette on the back of a flip-out screen so that when you’ve go it shut and using the viewfinder, it looks like the back of a classic OM (plus a couple of buttons). Would absolutely love that.
What about a “pocket” to show the “film speed”? :-).
You must be a FUJI designer.
That would be a nice touch.
Main concern about old PENs: AF speed –> very well addressed by new PENs
Main concern about new PENs: no integrated viewfinder, either tiltable or high res LCD, whether sealing, hjigh ISO –> it seems that they are trying to address them all!
I think that G3 sensor + olympus tweaking (you can say anything, but EP3 images are better than EP2 ones, even if the sensor is the same) may be adequate.
Wow, I thought that it was a Google translation.
I think I need spectacles, or we need a better picture of that camera 😉
…lets also hope that they are fixing the ANNOYING sound of 25 panaleica lens with the new Oly.
+1
Or they launch a new Zuiko High grade 25mm f1.2!!
Please add focus peaking, please…
agree
So there we have it: ISO 200 to start with. I am convinced this is because they want to say: ISO 25600 in the specs. And nothing else. Who thinks ISO 25600 will be even barely, barely usable?? Who is interested in that? 0,1% of those who know what to do with the camera.
They do not get this: ISO 50 to ISO 6400 is much more usable than this marketing hype. And reviewers are sometimes not helping either. I have reas that G3 as a downside has a “limited ISO range”. Well, yes: it should extend inot lower ISO range, but that was not what they meant..
So I am not counting on any gains in DR with that sensor. I predict 10.5 eV in DXOmark. However: I noted that with the L$ 4 beta, especially my G1 pics got much better in specifically tat area so we can work around that after all (it seems).
If all other things are done right, this is still a nice update from Oly.
I don’t like the restriction to ISO200 either. But this decision of Olympus hasn’t got anything to do with high ISO performance. In the E-P3, e.g., you find the very same sensor as in the E-5. The E-5 starts at ISO100, the E-P3 at ISO200. Why is that so? Because the higlight rolloff at ISO200 is much nicer; you don’t overexpose that fast (the reason behind this is that all Oly cams since the E-30 underexpose one stop from ISO200 onwards and apply a different tone curve then to compensate for this underexposure, thus saving the highlights. This method gives more noise in the shadows, but it is much easier to capture contrasty scenes without blowing the highlights). Still Oly could easily allow for ISO100 (maybe as an extended ISO setting like Canon does for ISO50 in some models). So the user could decide if he wants to sacrifice the highlights or the shadows.
my E-400 allows iso 50, and up to iso 12000 with the hack, and this out of a kodak ccd sensor from 2005
What hack is this? Where to find it?
You need open up firmware in camera, but need code for open up.
http://www.biofos.com/cornucop/hidden.html
“5.packed with an GN10 flash.”
I don’t like the sound of that. Sounds like they finally got built in EVF, but has opted for a small addon (but included) flash like epm1. Well, at least you can use it at the same time as the EVF. (And it works just like a builtin rgd remote flash, at least on the epm1)
Goffen
Ok — the E-P3 has a built-in flash, and I really like that it can be used to control other flashes, but frankly speaking, I have only used it 2-3 times since November. For me, it would probably be ok to drop a built-in flash — if they include radio control of flashes.
They will of course NOT include radio control. (If you add a radio you suddenly have a lot of different regulations around the world to struggle with)
They have a remote flash system and they will stick to it. The included external flashes also supports remote control. The only drag is the inconvenience of not having it available at all times.
Let’s hope the translation is wrong.
Goffen
“They will of course NOT include radio control. (If you add a radio you suddenly have a lot of different regulations around the world to struggle with) ”
Thanks for that little reminder. It does bring back some reality to the limitations in designing cameras. For someone to say it’s simple to add a feature (that they may want) is usually not simple at all & it isn’t always just a physical design limitation but can be a legal one too.
As long as it can control my wireless flashes, I’m OK.
I think I prefer it external instead of a large and ugly bulge on top. Then the EVF bulge can be as sharp looking as on the OM-1.
Have you seen any bulge on the e-pl2 or e-p3 ?
Have you seen an EVF on the e-pl2 or e-p3?
And the bulge will be about half the hight to adding the external VF-2 or 3 on top & it will have a hotshoe on top of it too. You beauty! I’ll be able to use my FL50(R) flash while using the EVF at last.
Saw it just now
Fujifilm considering supporting Olympus
http://ca.reuters.com/article/businessNews/idCATRE80H08420120118
Endoscope business though…wonder if it extends to camera division
Its been reported over and over on many business channels and business newspapers, nobody cares/wants the Olympus camera business. Olympus owns 70% of the world wide endoscope business and it is expected to grow with all the aging population around the world.
As Olympus fan we hope/dream/want more, but from a financial point of view, there is just not enough there for anyone to be interested in investing into. The issue is that Olympus is not a top 3 camera company and will never be and even combined with the other non-top 3 companies will still not make it in the top 3.
From a purely financial point of view, the camera division would be sold and it would be so if they allowed western investment. They are looking for eastern investments to allow them to keep the company whole.
What happens in these situations is that its the profitable divisions that get sold, because they have value for the investors, and the unprofitable divisions get shut down.
That being said, Woodford in one of this (way too many) interviews said that the camera division has some great products coming up (I’m assuming he meant OM-D, maybe others), that could put Olympus back in black.
too big!!!!
i can carry a fullframe DSLR around my neck.. i don´t need a smaller sensor camera when i can not put it into a pocket.
It will be near the E-420, but with 100% Viewfinder, articulrd screen & Weather proof design. There is a big difference to dslrs with this features…
Pocket? maybe XZ-1 is better, but a lite Pen bag is oky for me, better so a big lowepro bag.
Stick to compacts like Canon’s S100 then. Fine cameras (I own an S95) and they actually do fit in a pocket. But to be honest, I think the size difference between this OM-D and my 7D with 17-55 EF-S will be significant. (Not saying I will trade in my 7D.)
Admin:
Any news on the GH-3?
mpo? What a dumb selling point. There better be way more than that very minor format.
The list lead-in to this thread is not a complete list, and not an official list from Olympus, obviously.
Would be nice to know if this camera is able to use real IBIS for video, and not the “digital” one used by the E-P3.
Unlikely. From what I understand, IBIS and video simply don’t mix (you would have to synchronize the servos with the shutter, and there’s probably other thorny issues). On the bright side, you can use Panasonic OIS lenses, or better yet, use proper camera support.
Will this be the best implementation of ibis yet? How many stops do you expect will be gained?
“Will this be the best implementation of ibis yet? How many stops do you expect will be gained?”
—-
With my E-5, I gain between four and five. Should the OM-D achieve the same I’d be stunned.
You are seriously able to gain between four and five with the E5? That is remarkable. Why would you be stunned if this equals that? I expect this camera to surpass the E5 in every way.
“You are seriously able to gain between four and five with the E5? That is remarkable.”
—-
Yep. More fourish than fivish but between four and five, nevertheless.
“Why would you be stunned if this equals that? I expect this camera to surpass the E5 in every way.”
—-
Smaller, cheaper, not as technically matured…
No, I don’t think so. I hope it will represent a major step in the right direction and it certainly will outclass the E-5 in quite a number of areas, bur I don’t expect the following problems to be solved as early as now: C-AF, EFV lag and no live-view at higher FPS rates. Even the EVF of the Sony A77 isn’t able to produce the latter and so, I think expecting Olympus to have achieved this goal in early 2012 would be over optimistic. But then…
Why shouldn’t they surprise us and stun me even more…?
Or if not surpass at least be the equal of the E5.
> With my E-5, I gain between four and five.
Interesting, I always thought that these claimed numbers applied to people suffering Alzheimer’s disease 😀
I mean I could get 2.5-3 stops at maximum out of my former E-30, whose IS was supposed to be at the level of E-3..
Come on dude that 5 stops claim is bull .That would mean with a 14mm lens {reciprocal of effective focal length 1/28th} you would be able to get a sharp shot at 1 sec hand held, love to see a sample of that. Olympus really struck gold with its dumb and gullible fan base, despite a huge financial fraud, having the poorest sensors in the business, hugely overpriced and oversized SHG lens , making numerous idiotic claims , fastest AF, fastest AF again, new sensor { that’s is used multiple times } and 5 stops IS LOL they keep swallowing the happy pills
Really hope this updated, curvier, OM, is not as ugly as the latest Panasonic attempt at retro.
Panasonics attempt at retro? The only thing retro about the GX-1 is the fake leatherette. The design process was probably a tough fight between the sane and very capable product designers and the upper management which was screaming “Nooooo, everybody is doing retro, we need that too!”
I agree Narretz, but in that recent interview with a Panasonic spokesman he referred to it as having a retro look. To me it just looks really ugly and not well thought out. Not sure how to describe the aesthetics- cobbled together is probably the best description. A little of this, a little of that, and you have an ugly camera. Still takes great pictures though.
$1,100body only? $1,400 with lens? Tough call. The A77 is mighty nice.
Soooo: Will there be a hot shoe ??
I was hoping more for a ‘box’ design, like the Fuji X’s cameras. But I guess we’ll see..
you get pyramid design, i feel it make suck! althought it is OM series, but does not mean remain everything is a good thing. human = flexible =/ tree 😀
There’s a poetry in poorly written English that I’m starting to appreciate.
“There’s a poetry in poorly written English that I’m starting to appreciate.”
I still think it make suck.
lol
pyramid remains for viewfinder house, not for retro suck.
Its nonsense…the image was taken off of the T-shirt in the nest post. LOL>
We all think the above image is faked. But if the underlying sentence is true. I guess, it’s “new seven-point twin cross type autofocus”. Cross fingers!
RIP m43… I will go for Fuji, sure soon they will introduce a smaller body
We all think the above image is faked. But if the underlying sentence is true. I guess, it’s “new seven-point twin cross type autofocus”. Cross fingers! Xl
So it would have some type of PDAF then?
If that’s the real picture it really will be OMG, and not in a good way….LOL
Technically…I am not sure what this means..ok…OLY is supposedly getting one more stop ISO over the GX1 (12,600)….but he base ISO is 200??? WTF?
@bob I think it means what people above are saying – Olympus is finally playing a specs game. They lost on low mp, so now theyre going to 16, they’re losing on high ISO so they’re sacrificing low ISO to get a big spec number. It’s a shame because we’re all waiting (even expecting) for olympus to do something revolutionary and all they can muster is iterative.
See Thom’s comment above, please.
If you really want ISO 50 (that really is 50), go buy some Velvia. It looks better than any digital file you’ll ever get anyway ;-).
> but he base ISO is 200??? WTF?
I’m not sure why you all act so surprised.
Most cameras released in the last two years have base ISO 200 and ISO 100 as extended. That includes all new Canons, Nikons and Sonys. Last camera I have seen which claimed to have native ISO 100 was the Pentax K-5.
Oly’s last 43 cameras too all have base ISO 200: E-30, E-620, E-5.
According to DXO the latest Sony DX sensors (with 16 and 24mp) have true ISO 80. That is a great advantage regarding noise to 160 or even 200 ISO (on an even smaller sensor).
M43 sensors should better reach from 50 to 6400 ISO. For the higher ISO values, image quality is rather poor anyway.
My Canon G10 has native ISO 80…
200 iso is a disappointment,
just as always, it too early to tell, there is more to the camera then look ans specs
Everytime when Olympus releaes new camera there are tons of predictions about better ISO and better DR. And then after the release you feel “cheated”, but nobody promised better ISO and DR. It’s only your imagination. You can believe that OM-D will have better sensor than D7000 and even D700 but don’t blame others for your problems.
That’s is not exactly true. The company does make the clai
Of better ISo for example. The last pens go to ISo 12800 though it looks horrible.
I think it is interesting that both this, and the previous rumor item, both start with describing the _looks_ of the camera. It is quite clear to me that the appearance is important to Olympus desingers and/or users.
One nice feature of OM-2 just came in to my mind: Metering during the exposure! No digital can do that, can they? 😉
Feature that makes OM-2 such a nice camera for shooting gigs 🙂
Yes you mean OTF metering so Olympus use on OM-2n and OM-4Ti absolute nice function.
I have an OM2 (not the n-version) and IIRC, it also have OTF metering.
Ah the days when TTL flash didn’t have to do that silly pre-flash thing. If you try photographing some insects and bird you end up with just their legs disappearing out of frame with digital TTL flash. Also the good old days when Olympus had TTL flash and with CaNikon it was way in the future before you got it. High speed flash synch was also an OM first.
Blueprint, design :
OM1 = No, no, no
OM2 = No, no
OM4 = No
OM2000 = Yes
Okay, I’m in for this one.
Bought the 5N kit at a great deal a while back, but form factor is a little awkward for me. Added evf. Low light performance is stunning.
I really wanted the E-P3, but the low light was too far off the best. Love the color/rendering, though, and the design. Fuji X Pro1 is just too big, and focus reports aren’t so good.
So I’m in with the fake hump OMD mostly because the ISO is improved enough and the lenses are so good. Sight unseen (without a body) I just ordered the 20/2 & 45/1.8 — thinking demand may jump once the OMD news spreads.
And Thom, I’m the “new” buyer to this market you reference. Before this year, the last real camera I had purchased was a Spotmatic F. 😉
“Before this year, the last real camera I had purchased was a Spotmatic F”
Wow! And you still know what a camera is 🙂
(I had an OM-1)
The OM-D seems an attractive camera. – The big question mark is how sensor and processor performs. Is the IQ a clear step forward or similar to the existing Pana 18/16 mpix cameras?
I’m disappointed with the 16mp sensor. Oly had stated that 12mp was enough for anyone and they would only work on increasing the DR of the sensor not cramming in more pointless pixels. They have gone back on this commitment so now we have to put up with an extra 4m pointless pixels which must reduce the size and effectiveness of each one. Other than that, I’m really excited about the new OM-D as something to aspire to as a Pen replacement in a year or so when my EPL2 is getting towards retirement age.
It could be a square 16mp sensor, then the pixels aren’t pointless…
Both 16mp Panasonic sensors have higher DR than the 12mp sensor used in the Oly m43 cameras. Also, their SNR is the same at base ISO and better at higher ISO. And of course, they have higher resolution. Those extra pixels are not pointless at all!
I need say i is agree.
agree as well. Those that pan oly for breaking some kind of 12mp promise need to know that panny only has one 12mp sensor on offer and we’ve already been using it for years. 16mpx was panny’s call.
From a video point of view the specs are looking promising. 5 axis stabilisation seems to be the latest thing on video cameras, and if it works well on the OM-D, along with the moveable LCD panel and weather sealing, we may be looking at a nice camera for run & gun documentary work. Critical thing is what framerates and bitrates are being offered. Looking forward to hearing more.