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Voigtlander shows the 10,5mm Nokton lens design graph and lens manual.

[shoplink 53816 ebay]Bildschirmfoto 2015-06-07 um 16.07.54[/shoplink]

Voigtlander added that detailed lens design graph and the full manual (pdf file here). The lens will ship end of June for 1149 at [shoplink 53816 ebay]FotoMundus (Click here)[/shoplink] and at $1.445,00 in Japan at [shoplink 53614 ebay]Taku (Click here)[/shoplink].

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36 Responses

    1. Wider please, even if slower.

      I’m thinking it comes from Panasonic first. Hope I’m wrong.

      1. Agree. I’m thinking it won’t ever come from Panasonic or Olympus. The only hope for something a bit lighter and more affordable is Samyang. They are kind of the unsung heroes of manual UWAs.
        The mainstream camera and lens companies have all stopped designing new ultra-wide primes. Nikons recent 20/1.8 is the only modern one I can think of. My guess is that the zooms are so good that it’s hard to justify the extra effort on their part.

      1. At least they are generous enough to give us the plans! Canon and Nikon never give us any plans!

      1. I second your guess on the T-stop, but the difference between f and t stop is due to reflection, suppressed by the surface coatings, not due to dispersion. ED elements and the use of achromatic glass combinations is what controls dispersion (the difference in refraction of light of different wavelengths).

  1. That much money for the lens that cannot even autofocus?
    For that much money buyer gets the lens with only 2 aspherical lenses?
    Olympus for that much money puts at least twice as many aspherics, and ED, super ED, HR.
    That is called value for money.

    1. You’re welcome to shop at Walmart if you choose. ?

      Have you used any of the Voigtländer lenses?
      Have you seen images made with them?

      I’d guess not.

      1. 😉 yes I did. I used Voigtländer W.Z. 180mm f/9 Weichzeichner. I was not impressed with picture quality.
        What about you? Did you at least hold in hands any of the Voigtlander lenses?
        Or perhaps you talk about Cosina lenses? 😉
        Well so it you indeed used them show us your pictures. Show us superiority of these lenses so this would motivate us to purchase them. And if you do not have anything to show, please do not fart on the forum.

    2. I think people shooting video mostly use manual focus. I still find it very hard, and the lack of peaking on my OMD doesn’t help either. I Don’t think I want to invest in manual lenses personally, on photo shoots I have enough things to worry about, I don’t want to bother with an additional element, so I understand where you are coming from 🙂 But that f 0.95 is so sweet!

      1. Focus peaking isn’t really great for nailing focus. I see it more as a rough guide than anything you can rely upon with any certainty. My hit ratio is pretty low.

        Manual focus, especially with magnified focus assist, really isn’t that difficult or time consuming. You can spend more time diddling with a zoom while composing as you can focusing manually. Also, it’s great having and using a real mechanical aperture ring.

        Aside from their special image quality, the Voigtländers are beautifully engineered and built and a real pleasure to use. Yes, they are a bit heavy, chunky and pricey. You can’t have it all. ?

        I’m looking forward to at least trying a 10.5mm.

        1. Well I have never tried it on a voigtlander, but on all my Olympus lenses whenever I try to force myself to manual focus, it’s just crazy impossible. Im on manual everything except for focus and I know it would be very liberating for me to finally achieve that, but I just haven’t figured out how to do it yet 🙁 It’s like I go past optimum focus from one side to the other multiple times trying to figure it out and Im never really sure when to stop hehe. Plus I Don’t think I can have my subject wait for me that long..Guess I need to give it another try and practice more.

          1. Of course, because they’re electronic lenses with focus-by-wire. Spin the focus ring ad infinitum, ad nauseum. I never bother.

            Use a real mechanical lens and feel the difference!

    3. ED, super ED, and HR are as much marketing terms for Olympus as they are attributes of optical. The fact that they aren’t mentioned by Voigtlander does not mean that there aren’t elements with extra low dispersion characteristics. You can be absolutely certain there are. You can also be absolutely certain that with such a complex design there are elements with a high refractive index.

        1. Well, that is certainly true. But I’m not sure I understand how its relevant to anything I have said. Perhaps you intended your comment to be a reply to someone else?

  2. Waiting for mine to arrive….. and not getting, why some people are irritated that other people like the Voigtländers. Autofocus is at times nice to have – street fotografy for instance – but if you shoot under controlled circumstances either for foto or especially video, one doesn’t need autofocus or even needs to avoid it because wobbly, gooey focus hunting may destroy a shot. And not even talking about focus pulling for video, where the Voigts are on par with cine-lenses for their mechanical qualities and their long and smooth focus throw….

    It’s a bit like discussing forks vs. knives vs. spoons and forgetting that they all may be tools made for the dinner table but have different purposes…… 🙂

    1. A lot of people in the U.S. have never used, and cannot use, a manual transmission automobile. They’re afraid to try it, instead insisting that it’s too difficult to do. Same with manual lenses.

      Me? I love using manual lenses and my Voigtländers in particular! I’m kind of on the fence regarding the 10.5mm, but their other M4/3 lenses are truly great. I have a couple of adapted M and L mount Voigties, too. I use them for walkabout, street and subway shooting, nature stuff, travel… pretty much everything. The hardest part about using them is deciding which one to use. ?

      1. For travel I prefer now the GM1 with x zoom – small, light and sneaky. Tricky to use at times because so tiny and the monitor is… well. But it can get great shots without schlepping a ton of equipment (okay – two tons if you’re into Canon).

        Regarding AF – if you like it, use it. If not, not. It’s at times either under- or overestimated in it’s usefulness.

        1. I go both ways… MF and AF. ?

          I’m using a GX7 as a travel camera. I got a 12-40mm for a recent trip to Morocco and it was excellent. My only issue was accidentally moving the MF snap ring and shooting series of blurry pix. I still brought my Voigty 17.5mm for night shooting… the rendering is so much nicer than the Oly!

          The funny thing about using a zoom, is I spent at least as much time fussing with zooming in/out to compose as I do manually focusing. I guess in some ways it’s easier, or more intuitive, to visualize familiar fields of view.

          1. Same here – have the 25 stowed in my luggage and bring it out only at night when travelling.

            With primes I have a habit at times to go out purposley with only one lens and force myself to adjust my shooting to that. Wonder what the 10.5 will demand or allow me to do….. 🙂

      2. Ironic – If it weren’t for the fact that MFT didn’t have a whole lot of lenses at the start, I wouldn’t be so into manual lenses.

        Curious how this compares to the samyang 10mm.

        1. Funny, because one of the main reasons I chose M4/3 was the ability to adapt my old Nikon, Pentax and Olympus manual lenses, in addition to using native lenses like the 7-14mm , 14-140mm and 20mm with a GH2 (my original M4/3 purchase).

          1. That IS one reason I went that route. I didn’t have too much old glass – a single OM 50mm F1.8 – so I wasn’t completely sure about it. Man did it make me curious!

            Several dozen MF lenses later, I’m totally glad I did.

          2. Weirdest “old glass” I have adapted so far is a 180 mm Zeiss Jena f 2.8 (huge!), a 19mm Leica Elmarit f 2.8 with three integrated filters, orange, blue, green for b&w …. and a 600 – 1200 Vivitar zoom (with extender making it a 1200 – 2400) …..strange, strange fellows… 😉

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